Home » Reviews: in Sassari the gourmet restaurant Ficu

Reviews: in Sassari the gourmet restaurant Ficu

Contemporary cuisine with a look at Sicily

by Ada Parisi
5 min read
Recensioni: Ficu, ristorante gourmet a Sassari

The gourmet restaurant opens in Sassari Ficu, or 'fig’ in Sicilian. Now the Sardinian town finally has its own contemporary kitchen address. The restaurant is located in the center, a stone's throw from Piazza Italia. And it was born thanks to the spirit of initiative of a young couple. He is Sardinian, Giovanni Calvia, originally from Osilo, and has a long experience around Europe. She is Sicilian, Stefania Maugeri, coming from a catania family that works in the world of catering. They chose Sardinia and specifically Sassari to open a place that knows how to speak to a town historically very linked to traditional cuisine.

Minimal-chic environments for a restaurant housed in an old workshop, personalized in shades of gray and taupe. Very welcoming and suitable for those who love the style of northern European cities. Tables and chairs all different from each other, from family furnishings and collections of the sixties and seventies, with a very simple mise en place but with attention to detail.

Ficu gourmet restaurant: tasting or a la carte menu

The gastronomic proposal of the Ficu gourmet restaurant in Sassari is built on a a la carte menu and a tasting menu with a fixed number of courses (3 or 5) but at the choice of the diner. The dishes obviously change according to the seasons. We visited the restaurant during the summer, in August, just one month after its opening. Hot day and with very few seats occupied, out of about 40 available. The team led by Calvia seems well knit and in the open kitchen you work calmly and quietly. The tasting started with homemade bread, made with sourdough, and a proposal of extra virgin olive oil by the Premiati Oleifici Barbera (Sicily). The dining room staff illustrated well the characteristics of the olive oil explaining its quality, origin and recommended combinations. We really appreciated.

Reviews: Ficu, gourmet restaurant in Sassari, the Octopus

Ficu Restaurant: amuse bouche and appetizer

The amuse bouche is inspired by the land of Sicily: let's start with small arancini with tomato sauce, served in an original way inside a sea urchin shell. An injection of taste that, already from the beginning, makes the customer understand that Sassari is the home of Ficu but that his heart is also Sicilian. It continues well with ombrina in batter, onions in vinegar, celery and green sauce. Followed by fried bread with mackerel and a great butter.

For appetizer the octopus served with the black lentil of Ustica, Kaluga caviar, chlorophyll, spinach powder, walnuts and green sauce. A dish where the eclectic style of Giovanni Calvia is well expressed: a mix of flavors and textures that manages to balance apparently distant elements: Amaro, sweet and sour. Probably one of the best dishes tried in this dinner.

Ficu to Sassari: first dishes

The five-course tasting continues with two first courses. Spaghetti with butter, anchovies, bonito and katsuoboshi (flakes of fermented fish in the manner of Japan) were extremely tasty, perfectly cooked, and with excellent salt management. Often, in dishes like this, salt gets out of hand even to the most famous chefs. Not in this case. The next course is a risotto with butter and tomatoes, burrata, Norway lobster and green sauce: rice cooked al dente, the wave, tasty but with a small flaw: the green sauce covered the delicate taste of Norway lobster. The rice was of Lombard origin, we hope next time to see enhanced one of the many excellent Sardinian rice in the province of Oristano.

Reviews: Ficu, gourmet restaurant in Sassari, the meat

Ficu: the second and the desserts

The second dish to be tasted is beef fillet, accompanied by American potatoes, vanilla potatoes, cooking bottom. A colorful dish with an intense taste, with a soft, juicy flesh and a very well made bottom. Too abundant side dishes compared to meat, in particular excessive The American potato. A dish however successful, recommended for those who love meat.

Still a lot of Sicily in sweets. Fennel granita with ricotta, strawberry tree and sesame honey, to reproduce the Sicilian juggiulena (a crunchy sesame with an aromatic taste). A sweet fresh, interesting and tasty, full of references to the island. Richer and heavier the dessert based on eggplant, chocolate ice cream, chili and hazelnuts. Very interesting the eggplant-based pie, but flavors and textures of this dessert are certainly more suitable for winter than for summer temperatures.

Ficu: prices and wine list

The prices of the tasting menus range from 45 euros for 3 courses to 75 euros for 5 courses. The wine list is essential, with particular attention to bubbles, from Franciacorta to Trentodoc, to Champagne (but focused above all on the great maisons) and the wines of Sardinia, even of very small companies, both red and white. Decent selection of wines by the glass and small selection of Italian biodynamic wines. In our case, we paired a sparkling brut rosé (About Bri) by Cantine Su Entu (5 euros). The wine list needs to be improved, indicating precisely, for all wines in stock, the name of the manufacturer, the name (Doc, DOCG, IGT), the name of the wine and the vintage. Mark-ups of medium wines.

Ultimately, the Ficu gourmet restaurant in Sassari, still in the start-up phase, definitely worth a visit and offers the tourist, but also to Sassari, a modern vision of the kitchen that the city definitely needed.

If you are or will be in Sardinia, you can peek through the RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS in the island and take a look at our TRAVEL ITINERARIES IN SARDINIA.

(Visited in August 2021)

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