I'm used’ very rare to see a restaurateur who at some point in the evening leave the command of your locale, Opens the door holding a tray of buns and hot pizzas, season with simple olive oil and salt, He smiles and gives customers waiting in line for their turn. Enzo Coccia this gesture makes him every night. I'm used’ a way to thank his admirers, to conquer them, cuddle them. And maybe it's something you can see only in Naples, where the watchword is ' hospitality '. For decades in the world of Neapolitan pizzeria, Enzo is one of the most influential Italian panorama pizza. The “Pizzaria In The News”, Open from 1994 at number 53 of Via Caravaggio, It is his Kingdom, a place where Enzo finds himself and cultivates a definite philosophy.
A small room of about 30 seats, somewhat removed from the historic center of Naples, between the districts of Vomero and the scenic hills of Posillipo, where they churn rotating pizzas. The logic is to offer the best you can find in the market of products from Campania: from flour to tomatoes, from vegetables to mozzarella. All of course with respect for tradition, which represents the beacon of the gastronomic path of Enzo Coccia, one of the first pizza makers who fought for recognition at European level of the Neapolitan pizza as a traditional specialty guaranteed (Stg). A path always looking for the quality that in 2010 led Enzo to open a second pizzeria (The News 94), not far from the first local, to look to innovation and budding gourmet scene. And in March 2016, the next step: the inauguration of a new local. “Lo Sfizio in the’ News” It is a place of experimentation and taste of street food, where the Neapolitan tradition meets modern taste trends.
My career started right from Sfizio of a’ News. The atmosphere is rustic-modern, with stone walls rebuilt, a large central counter with stools and a dozen individual tables. A school for the serving of drinks and an open kitchen complete the picture. Those who enter here understand immediately that there are no secrets in the kitchen, only simplicity and quality ingredients. And a large study done in advance to balance perfectly mixes and condiments. At Sfizio, Enzo Coccia offers especially fried pizza, 'mpustarelle (the ancient Neapolitan sandwiches) and bubbles.
No shortage of Montanare, the traditional version (fried pizzas mignon with tomato and pecorino cheese Piennolo) or creative as the one with strips of buffaloes, Pesto, pine nuts and black pepper (2 to 6 €) or the cold cuts and cheeses (15 euros) for an aperitif before dinner. Then, appetites for more robust, There are fried pizzas tradition (5-7 euro) or the more creative based on “Enzo ideas” (8-10 euro): tasty one with provolone vaccine (with a nice note slightly smoked), Escarole, pine nuts, raisins, Capers, Gaeta olives, Cetara anchovies and pecorino cheese; Always good pizza with provolone, tomatoes pacchetelle, romano cheese and basil. Special mention for pizza provolone vaccine, zucchini scapece, lard and black pepper. The dough is very light and dry, frying is made in view, as all the preparation.
But it is the 'Mpustarella the real news of the local: it is not in fact a simple sandwich, but a work of research and improvement of the sandwich Neapolitan kings of yesteryear snack. The dough sandwich aims to strike a balance between the old peasant bread and the new needs of lightness and digestibility, using natural yeast and a mixture of wheat flour type 1 and integral, enriched with a blend of sunflower seeds, Lino, Sesame, soybeans and oats. The dough is in indirect method, then in two phases, with the use of the chariot, and long rising. The firing is in a wood oven.
The result is a very light but crispy bread, Saber, rustic and delicate at the same, you can stuff in the tradition (hoax, tomato and raw ham, cheese and stuffed peppers, provolone with sausage and broccoli, proposals from 6 to 10 euro) or more creatively. I tried a resounding 'mpustarella with mortadella, buffalo provolone and pesto pistachio (9 euro), but I also want to mention one with provolone buffalo, of copper Montoro onion cream and lard (9 euro) and one with fresh datterini, Style Bagnolese semi, buffalo bresaola and arugula.
The wine list: surprisingly, a sought after and superselezionata beverage paper, which starts from the effervescence from native grapes of Campania. And at the table you can taste 16 euro a brut sparkling Falanghina, of Astroni Cellars, or (always at 16 €) Asprinio a brut d'Aversa Salvatore Martusciello; if you prefer red, you can choose a sparkling Gragnano Tenuta Iovine. The local paper proposes other bubbles, by the excellent Lambrusco di Sorbara Cantina della Volta to the classic Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige Ca’ del Bosco. In the paper there are also wines of Burgundy, Alsace, blonde and, Obviously, Champagne, with a choice of six maison less known to the general public, in the bottle or by the glass, from 11 €.
After a substantial aperitif made from fried pizza and 'mpustarelle I continued my journey in the pizzeria at number 53 (the door next to 'Sfizio'): a pizzeria as they used to be, rowdy, with an eternal line of customers waiting outside, the bank where you make a pizza in sight, the tight arrangement of tables. The offer is traditional: as a starter you can choose from bruschetta (4-7 euro) seasoned with raw ham, Fior di latte, provola buffalo, 'rolls’ such as those variously seasoned ricotta, mozzarella and cooked, provolone, bhoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo (6-8 euro). On the whole reigns pizza, classic (6-12 euro) to traditional (5-9 euro) to the creative (8-9 euro). Philosophy is written clearly in the menu: “The right ingredients and passion make a good pizza”.
And the pizza is excellent Enzo Coccia, Full Neapolitan style, soft, with a right thickness cornice and well leavened, clean the bottom (sign of an oven constantly controlled in the cleaning and temperature), well-seasoned. I have tried the Roman Dop delicious with San Marzano DOP, Buffalo mozzarella, Basil, pecorino cheese, anchovies and oregano (8 euro), with the first fruits of the season (in my case eggplant, turnip greens, mushrooms, tomato and mozzarella) at 9 euros, Dop Margherita with provola Dop buffalo, San Marzano DOP, PDO extra virgin olive oil and pecorino cheese and finally the amazing pizza San Gennaro, which has no mozzarella but only yellow tomatoes Piennolo, parsley, oregano, anchovies, black olives and basil: a real explosion of flavor.
In short, for those who love pizza local Enzo Coccia is a must and the trump card, in my opinion, is the balance achieved and consolidated between the revival of the tradition and the revival,that enables a recipe to stay alive and in step with the times. Here's, Enzo is all this. A pizza maker who likes to stay in balance.
Reviewed November 19, 2016