Reviews: Finnish, San Vero Milis house gourmet Production Camedda

UPDATE: chef Salvatore Camedda moved, with its restaurant Somu, Oristano, in front of the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta.

Deciding to take the cook, travel the world, work in the brigades of chefs like Giuliano Baldessari and then return to San Vero Milis, the center of a little more than two thousand inhabitants in a corner of Sardinia in the Montiferru and the Sinai Peninsula (province of Oristano), to propose a kitchen essential, at a more than fair price, the style and the very little business ideas. I'm used’ what happened to Salvatore Camedda, 35 years, native of Cabras, who chose to open his restaurant in December 2016 “Finnish” (from the Sardinian “the house”, which in Italian means home) in the former premises of the historic cellar of the Vernaccia Josto Puddu. The restaurant is inside a typical house of Oristano divided into two rooms: a large living room with central fireplace and a second smaller room, in addition to the characteristic central courtyard. The seats are just 25, the well-spaced tables. Large modern kitchen, where the chef works with the sous chef and an assistant cook. In this tiny restaurant, Salvatore Camedda follows a philosophy a little’ different from other Sardinian chef, such as the starry Roberto Petza (Casa Puddu) and Roberto Serra (Su carduleu) and he decides not to bet all alone on regional raw materials, but rather to open their kitchen to the good that is everywhere (and not only in Italy). Camedda, Therefore, You do not define a lover of food per kilometer zero. If the product is quality, It can and must enter the menu. From experience with Giuliano Baldessari, He has learned that a recipe can come from a few ingredients, if you declined through different cooking techniques: a path, to remove instead of adding, who is also featuring the work of Stefano Deidda in Cagliari (Il Corsaro). The lightness is the other conductor wire of its cuisine: few fries, careful use of fats and salt, enhancement of spices and herbs and great care in making sauces that do not cover the natural taste of food.

The proposal of Somu restaurant is equally divided between a kitchen and a sea floor. Its position between the mountains and the beaches of Sinis, this brought the chef to enhance both gastronomic tracks. There are two, then, The tasting menu proposed, both 45 euro (excellent price-performance ratio). After an aperitif with brut rosé the Contini winery, we start tasting journey with the bread basket: reginelle with dry tomato and oregano, wholemeal bread with chef's yeast, crackers with curry and fennel, carasau bread with organic oil of Joseph Piredda Cabras (the House of olive oil). Welcome chef is essential: buckwheat cracks, with cabbage purple cabbage and anchovies cream.

Somu scallops

I particularly liked that Somu there is no obligation to order the same menu for the whole table, and we were able to enjoy both the land is to the sea, making us a fairly complete idea of ​​the work Camedda. The tasting begins with the chef's welcome and winds through two starters, two first, a second, a cake and pastries (all dishes can also be ordered individually). For the fish menu, it begins muted, with a light and delicate starter, basically played the gentle tones: capasanta (soft, juicy), cauliflower cream and julienne of fried leek.

 


Really great appetizer composed of squid to the plate, fermented black garlic and crispy artichokes and oregano. A simple dish but full of contrasts and taste, lighted but not dominated by the intense flavor and aroma of fermented garlic, well balanced by the flavor of the squid and the sweetness of the fried artichoke.

For ground menus, at the table gets a rice chips Venus, paté with frozen chicken liver and hazelnuts. I'm a fan of chicken liver pate and this was really great: the consistency similar to that of a so masterly performed mousse, with vernaccia dough to give sweetness, in balance with the natural bitter aftertaste of liver. Perfect pairing with hazelnuts. The chips was not perfectly crisp, Whereas the humidity of the pate, but the contrast of textures was. We also tasted a small selection of cheeses: young Sardinian Fiore, a great blue cheese Sardinian product in Thiesi, a sweet pecorino, a cheese 'casizolu’ Montiferru and Grana Padano 18 months, all accompanied by citrus jams. A nice selection although I do not understand the added value of a Grana Padano 18 months in the tasting Battery.

 

For each tasting menu, S'Omu at the restaurant two pasta dishes are served (rice or dried pasta and handmade ravioli). Noteworthy green smoked risotto with broccoli cream, Chinese black tea and beetroot powder. A seemingly simple dish, prepared with the excellent Rice Oristano perfectly wave, but from the complex taste due to the slightly smoky note Tea, to that of plant chlorophyll, to that earthy and sweetish turnip. Interesting.

sea ​​side: there's the spaghetti with cream eel at Artemisia, paprika powder and turnip greens. Use of Artemisia, like many other herbs and herbs, It is part of the kitchen features the chef Camedda, that in this plate also uses the eel, typical ingredient of the Gulf of Oristano, transforming it into a cream without any added fat, very light and tasty, realized by exploiting the natural fat of this type of fish that, in Sardegna, It is traditionally used in many preparations. Excellent combination with the bitter taste of broccoli rabe and spicy paprika. The spaghetti would, However, It deserved a longer cooking al dente.

I always appreciate restaurants that bring the menu some pasta dishes handmade, especially if stuffed. At S'omu restaurant we tasted two types. For the meat menu, the ravioli with Casual axedu (a fresh soft cheese, typical of Sardinia), crispy bacon, Piacenza pumpkin in cream and herbs. A plate from the ideal chewiness: a crispy pastry, cooked to perfection, and a dense filling for the structure but also to taste. Missed bacon served to give a touch of flavor and slight fattiness. Altogether a plate in good balance, eight report card.

Yet: good, well-made ravioli stuffed with cod creamed of cream of Jerusalem artichokes and hazelnuts. Again a perfect cooking of pasta, creamed cod pleasantly creamy and soft, interesting pairing with Jerusalem artichokes that, as you know, It gives a slight sweet aftertaste of artichoke. Promoted.


Among the good seconds the red snapper cooked at low temperature, piastrata with crispy skin, served with a sauce of intense flavor and salt, made with crab eggs, with black olive powder, powder of red turnip and fresh beets scalded. perfect snapper Cooking, soft and juicy meat, natural taste. The flavor, elegant, He was conferred by the sauce crab eggs.

The second floor is a duck breast, with a celeriac cream and a small wine Porto. Traditional Food that between the duck meat and a sweet and sour ingredient as the Port Wine, as well as that between the duck and celeriac. As a whole, the duck was cooked well, although we would have preferred a more crispy skin, he would have earned in chewiness. still pleasant dish.

Pre dessert with a fresh, sour and intense tangerine sorbet and crumble shortbread, followed by two sweet good. At the bakery Somu restaurant is definitely a commendation for the study on outstanding amounts and on the acidity of sweets, cloying and well presented.

Good and particularly the Bavarian White chocolate with black olives in brine, pistachio cream and raspberry coulis. A dessert where excess sweetness was around the corner, but it remained at a very good balance between the components: Bavarian White Chocolate was not greasy or too sweet nor, very particular union with the fleshly and the slight bitter note of the olives (I have used them appreciated the neutral, au natural) and the acidity of the raspberry coulis.

Richer, but at the same time fresh and spicy, The second cake, which reinterprets the classic combination of pear and chocolate. The pear is served in three consistencies: hangover, puree and sorbet. Even chocolate has declined in various ways: dark hemisphere, cream and crumble. raspberries, As always, offer a pleasant feel of freshness to a very sweet delicious.

It closes with a good coffee and little pastry chef, that period of Carnival could not have missed the blinds pancakes (made “as it once was”), accompanied by a small panna cotta with chocolate double fermentation, served on shortbread and biscuits madeleines with white chocolate cream.

wine list with wines from all over Italy, although the references and designations of origin for each region are not many. The mark-ups on prices are fairly high, especially on products of the wine cellars of Sardinia. There is nothing below 20 euro and this may discourage the less experienced customers. Alternatively, you can choose between beers from both Belgium and Italy. Service, some’ too slow in taking orders, It has improved over lunch: a slow forgivable considering that the place was fully booked, especially considering the great courtesy and preparation room staff.

Somu The restaurant is located in a central location in the tiny San Vero Milis, opposite the Church of Saint Sophia (dating back to 1604), I suggest you visit: The church has a beautiful rose window in red trachyte, with gothic elements and three arched entrances, Renaissance style. San Vero Milis is also an excellent outpost for cultural and sightseeing. A few hundred meters from the restaurant there is the archaeological site of “S’Urachi”, nuragica a fortress with an adjacent village officially discovered in July 2017 and today excavation area. In the summer months, from the town center you can take a trip on the territory in the beautiful S'Anea Scoada the beach or in the desert of salt pond of Sale 'and Porcus. To be reported, Also the archaeological ruins of the Phoenician city of Tharros and the modern Archaeological Museum of Cabras, where an exhibition of the statues of the famous “giants” Monte Prama.

(visited in February 2018)

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