Home » Reviews: Sbanco, quality beers and pizza in San Giovanni

Reviews: Sbanco, quality beers and pizza in San Giovanni

by Ada Parisi
5 min read

They told me that booking a table by I-Pizza and Kitchen It was almost impossible. But I got it, to split an anonymous 20 Thursday in the middle of the week. The new creature of Caber, Open with two partners (Marco Pucciotti, owner of Trattoria Epirus and Giovanni Campari of firkin) After Sforno to Cinecittà and round Montesacro, located in the San Giovanni area (via Syria 1): a room with many Windows on the road, very large, in the urban-industrial style that goes very fashionable. Grey tones, peeling paint, a counter from twenty metres with 15 beer dispensers and large fermenters at sight. I say at once that reservations are accepted up to 20 hours and then you have to wait in line: Despite being a room with 200 seats, on weekends the line can be very long. The pizza maker is Valerio Piccirilli (comes from the pizzeria “Tonda”) While in the kitchen there's Sara Cicolini.

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Pizzeria Sbanco a Roma

Todai restaurant pizza is definitely not one of my favorites for the excess baking and bitterness of burnt due to background notes, as I wrote here in my review, from the question but I change: the pizzas are still, more often than not, too burned on the edges (I was lucky because the only non-burned was my), but the bottom is clean, There is no bitter sensation on the palate, the dough is thin, well leavened, Saber, yielding and not very digestible. In short, a great pizza well done, If we exclude too many Burns. Even here I wonder: the oven is evidently clean with care and constancy, Since the pizza base is clean, but it won't be a excess temperature to cause many, too many bubbles burned on the ledge?

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Pizzeria Sbanco a Roma

The menu is rich enough. It starts with the starters, making even small excursus in Sicilian cuisine and in the fifth quarter: I is one of the few that has a menu siculo Crouton with meusa (the spleen), Bay leaves and cheese (7,50 euro), as well as Sicilian arancino are inspired to black with cuttlefish and peas (5,50 euro) and the first sale in carriage (7,50 euro). Very well made potato chips (4 euro), thin, crispy and not oily: less interesting sauces they serve, a sweet and sour sauce and mayonnaise with tuna, with little acidity: the tuna is a little’ too fat combined with fried.

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Pizzeria Sbanco a Roma

Other chapter: fried foods (from 2,5 to 3 euro): 6 types of rice balls and two croquettes. I tasted the rice balls classic, the carbonara and potato cake: the rice balls are crispy on the outside, Fried well, with the right degree of humidity inside but with rice over the right doneness. Overall, more enjoyable to carbonara, Fiery pepper but very tasty. It must be said that the great crunchy Breading is overshadowing the faulty cooking rice. I cannot but regret the fact that finding a rice al dente in supplì is getting harder in clubs, even the most highly rated '. No longer in the menu, instead, the rice balls in the fifth quarter of which I had heard about and regret not having it could taste.

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Pizzeria Sbanco a Roma

Really well done (and also well presented) the Sweetbreads and beef liver with Sage, with citrus cream (8 euro): soft and cooked to perfection the innards, fresh and slightly sour sauce. In menu, among the starters, even some fish dish: raw bonito with beans in purgatory (9 euro) and cod panzanella (8 euro).

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Pizzeria Sbanco a Roma

We come to the pizzas: 8 red pizzas, 8 white pizzas and 8 special pizzas (including some evergreen of Sforno, as the Greenwich, I have already rejected in the first place and I didn't want to try again). Prices range from 6,5 euros of marinara pizza 13 euros to Sherwood, with mozzarella, wild boar sausage, Westcombe cheddar and chestnuts. Daisy coast 7,5 euros. Although I was attracted by special pizzas, like Carbonara or Tortellini, I wanted to try the simplest pizzas to judge the basis of preparations. I then tasted, As always, Naples pizza (tomato, mozzarella and anchovies), simple and tasty, with a border less burned in other, seasoned well but not oppressed by the quantity of ingredients.

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Pizzeria Sbanco a Roma

The ingredients of all pizzas are of a high standard: stracciatella di bufala pugliese, mozzarella organic sheep, hams and handmade capocolli, red onion. The tomato sauce has a nice balance between acidity and sweetness and it feels very good in Daisy romanesca (12 euros), with tomato, mozzarella organic farm sheep Fendi, Roman Mint and pecorino romano: pecorino compensates well the flavor a little mozzarella and spiccato is overall a very interesting pizza.

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Pizzeria Sbanco a Roma

Then I tasted the ortolana (9,5 euros): a pizza that seems trivial but it is not, because everything depends on the quality, cooking and freshness of the vegetables. In this case I is widely promoted, and perhaps this is the best I have eaten vegetables, with julienne Zucchini made the dough raw, pleasantly crunchy, Broccoli Rabe which gave it a bitter note very flirty and diced Eggplant.

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Pizzeria Sbanco a Roma

Finally, the pizza that maybe more I liked, La Tropeana (10 euro) with Buffalo mozzarella, red onion, black olives and lemon zest. Miraculously well done cooking, with a nearly perfect, The Sweet Onion only slightly wilted in the oven, the freshness of lemon zest. An amalgam of delicate flavors but with personality.

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Pizzeria Sbanco a Roma

For the record, Since I have not tasted, from I there are pasta dishes but there are a few seconds, from vegetarian tempura (8,5 euros) the duck breast and Autumn Salad (14 euros) the catch Pan (12,5 euros). Interesting herb lamb ingredients with purple potatoes and onion marinade (13.5 euro). I will return to try this dish. Undertone overall sweets, all proposed at 5,5 euros, they are certainly not the strong point of the restaurant. I tried two of the four count of the list, aside from the Apple sorbet and banana and wafer of bread with cream and fruit salad. I tasted a regular tiramisu, barometer of the dessert trolley, which I thought was average, with little personality.

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Pizzeria Sbanco a Roma

The second dessert was a chocolate cookie with caramelized Apple and cream cheese and Greek yogurt. The chocolate cookie was very hard, the flavors quite undertone, and the cake was sprinkled with licorice powder (abundant), ingredient not found in the description of the dessert on the menu. Saw licorice is one of the most invasive and that not everyone likes, Perhaps it would be better to report it on the menu. Wide, varied and level the selection of beers at the counter, that you can choose in the mode pump mode or draught. Good range of Italian craft beers, from North to South.

Is, Since no one is perfect, and that commitment here is clearly seen, my judgment on I remain positive: I recommend you try it.

(Visited on November 24, 2016)

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