Home » Reviews: Changes, in Rome between kitchen 100% Italian dishes and ethics

Reviews: Changes, in Rome between kitchen 100% Italian dishes and ethics

by Ada Parisi
5 min read

UPDATE: Changes the restaurant ended September 23, 2018. Federico Federico Cucchiarelli and Silvi are working on a new project. We will keep you posted.

There is only #8217; #8217 &; commitment to propose a modern kitchen and and light but also the catering has the idea #8217 &; duty to contribute to lend a helping hand to small business and Home Office agriculture and food. Created by & #8217; idea of two partners, chef Federico Cucchiarelli and Federico Silvi who runs the dining room and the cellar, the restaurant Changes aiming to become a creative alternative, modern Roman cuisine restaurants in a similar price range, but also a place that offers a quality food that can be said to be truly sustainable. Opened in mid-2016, Changes in via Furio Camillo, neighbourhood Appio Latino in Rome, a residential area not far from Piazza San Giovanni, where l & #8217; gastronomic offer consists mainly of traditional trattorias and pizzerias, with a few gourmet proposals by level. Just twenty seats, in a modern setting but with little heat: décor in neutral shades between black, Gray and natural wood.


The ventiseienni owners, aided by Frederick Hall and Ernesto, were students of Heinz Beck in the Pergola and the staff have done that for Beck oversaw the openings of some restaurants all & #8217; abroad (London and United States). Back in Rome, both have worked with chef Giuseppe di Iorio at restaurant Aroma of Palazzo Manfredi, until they decided to open their own local following their own cooking philosophy. In minimalism of & #8217; environment, are entertaining the many Succulents that grow in large pots-shelf all & #8217; room Interior. Two large Windows overlook the street, sanded half way to ensure customer privacy. Rational even the mise en place, on black tables, No tablecloths, Neither table mats. The venue is deliberately (Too much) dimly lit, Despite the presence of an installation of spotlights on the ceiling, not used for the benefit of small candles on the tables. Romantic atmosphere but we would prefer to see exactly what is on your plate c & #8217;.


The restaurant menu Changes reflects l & #8217; simplicity of local: three starters (13-15 euro), three first (13-15 euro), three seconds (17-20) and two desserts (8-10 euro). Two tasting proposals, chef's choice among the dishes listed on paper (but I welcome any customer preferences): the first four courses to 35 euros and the second by seven courses to 50 euro (drinks not included). In paper is found in both the full and very detailed list of allergens, is the list of all suppliers of raw materials, they are mostly from Lazio and, Anyway, exclusively Italian. The bread is prepared with flour come from Molino Agostini of Ascoli Piceno, vialone nano rice is a dell & #8217; Italian company El Restel, salt is delle saline di Cervia, the chocolate of Modica dell & #8217; antica dolceria Bonajuto, as well as Sicilian is l & #8217; olive oil, from Agrigento (oleificio Lu Trappitu), While the ROE is Sardinian cooperative Nieddittas. The fish is from the coasts of Latium or Sardinia, While the meats come from farms in the wild in Campagnano di Roma. Fruits and vegetables are provided by the consortium of producers of & #8217; cold water.

We chose the seven course tasting menu. The dinner began with an aperitif with Gaeta olives and popcorn just skipped.

Pleasant welcome chef: a comforting 36 month Parmigiano Reggiano and meat broth with herbs, served in an elegant balloon glass, and designed to prepare the palate for tasting. Then, along with homemade bread (with fresh yeast and flour type zero type one) was served l & #8217; Sicilian oil and Cervia salt.

The restaurant is very close to vegetarian philosophy and has one or two green proposals for each type of scope. The meat dishes are just paper, Although a second of meat is always present: the choice of restaurant prefers adult animals, including the pork bred in the wild, beef, Rabbit, Guinea fowl, and cuts and sizes unusual that the chef wants to exploit. The fish is well represented. Convincing the first Starter: a croquette with Leek sprouts and yogurt mousse. Crunchy, not greasy and tasty cake, whose frying is well balanced by & #8217; yoghurt acidity and supplemented by the pungent taste, sometimes spicy, Leek sprouts.

To follow, a mackerel, Pomegranate-water, misticanza and Jerusalem artichoke cream. Good cooking of tuna (juicy), not enough crispy skin, This little taste of artichokes but pleasant l & #8217; combined with the freshness of Pomegranate juice. The dish has become more complex and appealing with l & #8217; adding a few drops of extra virgin olive oil.

As first courses came to the table a filled pasta and risotto with goat cheese Campagnano di Roma and a pumpkin cream valance (grown by the chef's father Frederick). One between the pumpkin and cheese tart is a combination of success and long tradition: the taste is very well balanced overall result. Shame about the degree of cooking rice, that would surely have deserved at least two minutes in a pan. It was explained that the average Roman public does not like a risotto al dente and which, then, the restaurant Changes has opted for an intermediate solution. Since it's always a pleasure to find a risotto in paper under the Rubicon, the Center South, and that the risotto was good, suggest that you ask the customer how to prefer cooking rice, so that will be totally satisfied with dish.

After the risotto, they arrived in tavola dei cappelletti stuffed potato, leeks and Mint, served with pecorino. A very thin sheet enclosing a stuffing soft and tasty, where the taste of Mint is slightly overwhelming. A plate overall well managed. Knowing l & #8217; greasy effect of water #8217 with cheese and, I added a sour note (lime zest?) to give more freshness to the dumpling.

 

One of the two vegetarian main courses sampled at restaurant Changes: a mushroom cardoncello, served with alfalfa, parsley sauce, burnt corn chips, Salsa all & #8217; garlic and mushroom soup. Although the fungus was not wild but cultivated, and then with a watery flavor intense and sometimes not, was well enhanced by a & #8217; great cream of mushroom, dense and fragrant, and a well executed and Garlic herb cream d & #8217;. Enjoy fresh from the parsley and alfalfa from & #8217;, While the chips placed on the fungus still full of water had obviously lost its crispness. Overall, a good interpretation.

L & #8217; single dish that I haven't found any convincing was the second of meat. A capocollo pork, bred in the wild, cooked at low temperature (60 degrees) served with crispy pork rind chips, savory and custard apple. Nice and neat l & #8217; impiattamento (Perhaps the most beautiful of the dinner), crispy pork rind chips, pleasant sweetness of apples and the aroma of savory herb that #8217 &;, traditionally, combine well to pig. Thanks to low temperature cooking, the meat was pink, intense flavor, but unfortunately difficult chewiness, especially because of the presence of collagen veins not sufficiently softened by cooking. I did not find pleasant jelly-like sensation to the palate and the difficulty with chewing. I understand that an animal bred in the wild have a less soft flesh, a more full and decided, I appreciate l & #8217; use of cuts held and barely worn, but the dish wowed.

Delicious dessert, playing on another classic match: dark chocolate and raspberries (available in paper at 10 euros, some’ overpriced). No defects in this mousse, soft and pleasant to the palate, enriched with hazelnuts, and with a base of chocolate of Modica cona its typical grain. A soft mousse, good contrast from & #8217; acidity of red fruit coulis.

To finish, the chef has fun, bringing back all & #8217; childhood, with brown sugar candy, a small, intense Mint meringue, and with home made truffles chocolate of Modica. Mainly natural and biodynamic wine list with markups honest. Sign of attention to restaurant #8217; & sustainable viticulture. Prevalence of white wines with designation d & #8217; origin, Umbria, Friuli, Veneto, Lazio. Very friendly and fast service, Despite the complexity of the dishes. Surely the chance to taste in Rome a modern and interesting tasting menu at 50 euro (When a badly in the trattorias of Trastevere carbonara often performed cost at least 13 euros), is reason enough to try it. And you have to trust the chef and try one of two tasting menus, with a value undoubtedly convenient. L & #8217; ethical commitment all use of local raw materials and #8217; & anyway italiane is a plus that you cannot fail to take into account. To try.

(visited in November 2017)

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