Sip a glass of Collio Doc's yellow bubble accompanied by a Liptauer-stuffed cyave, admiring the walls of a medieval castle. You can do it in Gorizia, cities in the far northeast of Italy, border land where Germanic cultures and traditions are intertwined, slaves and Latins. During a weekend in Gorizia, You know a place by the polite charm, surrounded by greenery, with that mild, temperate climate that you wouldn't expect in Friuli Venezia Giulia. A climate in 1873, in a’work by Carl von Czoernig, senior Austrian government official, earned him the definition of Gorizia “Nice Austrian”. Here, In fact, Austro-Hungarian nobles spent their holidays in magnificent villas still exist.
Gorizia, the Northeast Nice
In an Italian, this city of about 35.000 non-residents is among the most preferred from the strictly tourist point of view, but we must not forget that Gorizia is among the top ten most liveable cities in Italy (according to the daily top ten "Sole24ore"). Not only. Gorizia positive influence enjoys the proximity of Trieste (if you're planning a holiday in Friuli, read my TRAVEL ITINERARY ON THE ELEGANT austere TRIESTE). However, Gorizia spaces to an intelligent tourism and delicious, proof gastronauts, there are all. In a weekend in Gorizia here is what to see, eat and what are the places to visit absolutely.
The Victoria Square, the charming street Rastello, the museum of the Great War, Palazzo Coronini, the baroque style of the Church of St. Ignatius, the Fashion Museum and the applied arts, the famous and-photographed the Slovenian border and Nova Gorica, where in 2004 he fell the last wall between Western Europe and Eastern Europe. Is, at the table, la brovada, with gubana goriziana, the honey mushrooms, il kugelhopf, the "Rose of Gorizia" and even ice cream.
Gorizia is a city whose beauty is often hidden to the eye. They are delicate beauties, hidden. To see them, you have to enter the gates of the historical buildings, left open almost like an invitation to enter. We must turn the nose up, looking up the Liberty railings of balconies and walls, the facades of palaces and villas built by the Habsburg empire aristocrats. You have to visit the churches, such as the cathedral of Saints Hilary and Tatian and admire the frescoes and richly inlaid ceilings and paintings. Gorizia does not show the triumphant and glistening eyes, his is an elegant beauty who wants to be discovered, not performed.
BREAK GOURMET – The aperitif
In Gorizia, the aperitif is a civic duty. We chose the cocktails of "Al Chiostro Gorizia", trendy restaurant in the green Piazza Sant'Antonio, which offers a beautiful view of the castle. In front of the Palazzo Strassoldo, abundant platters of cold cuts and cheeses are the stars of this place, always lively until late at night. Served quickly and particularly courteous, in this youthful and relaxed environment, we advise you to order a white spritz, that is fashionable in Gorizia, made with white wine, soda and lemon juice, without the use of Aperol and without the bitter Campari. In a weekend in Gorizia you must try the local aperitif at least once.
The Borgo Castello
We arrived in Gorizia a few days after the end of the Frontier Gusti, the great gastronomic event, organized by the municipality, with the support of PromoTurismo Fvg, tourism promotion agency of the Region Friuli Venezia Giulia and the Chamber of Commerce Venezia Giulia. Hosted at Strassoldo Palace, in the renovated Grand Hotel Entourage, in the Borgo Castello area, we started our visit from the most important building: the medieval castle, an eleventh-century building overlooking the city from a height of 150 meters, with the crenellated towers and ramparts.
The castle was used as a country counts of Gorizia until 1500 but also as a barracks and military fortress. Past the door Leopoldina, you enter into the walls. The interiors are well maintained and you can visit the different floors and all rooms decorated with period furnishings, busti, paintings, tapestries. Do not miss a walk in the battlements, the court dei Lanzi and the music room, with a collection of unique pieces.
WHERE TO EAT – Trattoria alla Luna
In a weekend in Gorizia you have the time to explore the local cuisine. Goriziani I know very well this address in via Oberdan, not far from the indoor market. At The Moon restaurant was founded in 1876 and today is managed by Pintar family. In the kitchen she has a notch: Celestina Golijevscek, with a smile that prepares the most representative dishes of local cuisine.
The Liptauer pods, The pumpkin pie on Montasio cheese fondue, bread dumplings with wild boar sauce, palacinka the stuffed cabbage Sant'Andrea, pork loin with baked apples, I kipfel the potatoes and the wet gubanica with liquor Slivovitz. A genuine cuisine and central European style in a particular environment, with utensils hanging from the ceiling, lights, candles. After the meal you order a Pelinkovac, a bitter herbal. There is fun. Prices around 35 € for a full meal.
The Museum of the Great War
In the climb that leads to the castle, the Museum of the Great War It is one of the most interesting places and it is a necessary step to discover the difficult and bloody history of the city of Gorizia, which it was annexed to the Kingdom of Italy in 1919, 1500 after being under the control and influence of the Empire of Austria-Hungary. Uniforms, photographs of soldiers, machine guns, mace, everyday objects of the hard life in the trenches. Everything contributes to excite the visitor in a very efficient layout that gives the measure of the cost of war in terms of economy and especially of lives.
The Fashion Museum
The building that houses the museum of the Great War, also houses Fashion Museum and applied arts. Born in 1999, this unmissable museum tells how the economy related to the processing and silk-weaving was one of the bearing elements of Gorizia in the eighteenth century, under the rule of the emperors Maria Teresa of Austria and Joseph II. textile Samples, machinery, an imposing circular silk-throwing machine (the largest in Europe), dating back three centuries ago.
An entire room is dedicated to lace eighteenth, coming from the Monastery of St. Ursula. And in an environment set up in the style of the "Belle Epoque", meet the cobblers' shops, of the chaplains, up to the department stores. The films and the rich clothes of the beginning of the century take us back in time making us go from the eighteenth century to the beginning of the twentieth century. My advice is to find the time, on a weekend in Gorizia, to visit.
The art of lace is still practiced in the city. And just in Gorizia he was born a unique technique of its kind, that of the ladle with fuse. These extraordinary works can be purchased, at dear but fair price, in the center, in a central Via Giuseppe Verdi shop.
BREAK GOURMET – Pastry Cidin Eddo
Another pleasant sweet stop in this pastry shop, extremely familiar climate, opened for over ten years in the city. In Via Marconi, in the historic center, c’is the Cidin pastry. It's not uncommon to find Gortions quenched to pick up scented sweets like stuffed tarts, gubane, putizze, chocolate-stuffed cakes, favettes and buttery biscuits. It was a pleasure to find dad Eddo Cidin at work with his son, he also pastry chef, and to be able to get up close and near the top of good raw materials to create great products.
Rastello Street and Victory Square
The ancient Austro-Hungarian-style buildings, with narrow, tinted windows, dominate the unmissable Via Rastello (the medieval rake, the gate with which it was closed in medieval times). A narrow pedestrian street that joins the Village Castle to victory square, with different clothing stores and hats, Wine, bars and clubs for breakfasts and aperitia.
A street that's trying to take back the place it deserves in this city, where the economy has changed strongly with the opening of borders, after Slovenia joined the European Union. At the end of Via Rastello, the glance on Victory Square is impressive: Government Palace, the Fountain of Neptune, the Church of St. Ignatius with its Baroque Gorto style. From the center of the square emerges the dominant figure of the castle: a proof of Instagram.
BREAK GOURMET – Ice cream glida
A discovery, a surprise, a goodness. The Slider gelateria, conducted by the young Matteo Ugomari of Blas, will make you talk about yourself in this town and not only. Extreme care in the selection of raw materials and ingredients, excellent technical execution, youth environment and a philosophy that points to the naturalness of the preparations are the characteristics of Glida (Hebrew: ice cream). Matthew has worked in an Italian ice cream in Tel Aviv and then he opened his sweetness corner in his native Gorizia. Fiordilatte, Pistachio, Piedmont hazelnuts are tastes that we liked more. Prices are slightly above average, but it's definitely worth a greedy stop for a cone or a walking cup. And you can enjoy your ice cream while walking in the park of Remembrance, dominated by the monument to the fallen of World War I.
This square, for its symbolic value, it's the nerve centre of Gortian tourism. The border between Italy and Slovenia is now open, both are part of the European Union. But, until 2004, wasn't like that. During the "Cold War" period (1947-1991), Gorizia was divided by a wall and a net (the so-called ‘wall of Gorizia’) guarded by the military near the famous Red House. Network and wall, symbol of a more political and psychological than geographical division, were torn down and replaced by a beautiful circular mosaic, made from Palmanova artistic school.
After crossing the border in just one step, you enter in Slovenia, in the station of Nova Gorica, city founded in 1947 by dictator Tito jugolsavo. Nova Gorica and Gorizia are profoundly different cities, so much modern one o'clock how old the other. From the station (It inaugurated in 1906 and well preserved), you can climb on antique steam trains, today carrying more goods, but tourists who want to cross the beautiful woods, the Soca River, Sava River and visit the lake and the Bled Castle.
Palazzo Coronini Cronberg
Gorizia also hides a splendid palace of the late sixteenth century, immersed in a green park, adorned with stone sculptures and fountains neoclassical. Palazzo Coronini Cronberg It was the residence of the last Count of Gorizia of this ancient lineage dating back to the tenth century. Guglielmo Coronini (He disappeared in 1990). His passion for collecting led him, in the years, to enrich his residence of various objects, now on display in a fascinating museum open to the public, by himself wanted.
The Venetian living room, Bishop's room, the precious central hall with Louis XVI furnishings, Charles X's rooms in Bourbon, last king of France, who moved to Gorizia in 1836. The visit to the palace is a must also to admire the collections of Gorizia lace, Watches, Weapons, fans of Parisian manufacture. On the road leading to the palace Coronini Cronberg it is a must stop at Verdenberg Palace and the library Isontina, born inside the old Jesuit seminary.
WHERE TO EAT – Locanda 101
Moeche (crabs), Cuttlefish and polenta, potato dumplings with redfish, salt cod creamed tris. A fish and seafood of all Mediterranean, with Venetian-Giuliani inserts, It is the characteristic of Locanda 101. A restaurant that adheres to Gorizia a Tavola and who has chosen to enhance the Rosa di Gorizia, the famous local radicchio. In this restaurant, which is located in Corso Italy, near the Memorial Park, you can sample seafood specialties cooked in a simple way and in accordance with the raw material.
Some Arab and Sicilian influence is evident in the summer cous cous with squid and shrimp or octopus greedy. Fair prices and stocked wine list, offering mainly local labels. In short, on a weekend in Gorizia, Ground meat, There may also be room for a good well cooked fish.
Ars Galenica and pharmacies
Gorizia is a city of historical pharmacies. The galenic art dates back to the times of the emperors of Austria. Period furniture, ceilings dating back to the mid nineteenth, still functioning scales of the eighteenth century welcome visitors in Pharmacy Bear, Via Guglielmo Oberdan. The pharmacy, riisalente al 1625, It is the oldest in the city and the supplier of the Habsburg court. The family Provvidenti, who took over the business in 1960 by the founding family Cristofoletti, is the guardian of traditional techniques, thanks to a clever use of medicinal herbs and a great knowledge of the beneficial properties of plants and plant substances.
Ointments, syrups, infusions were common in the past but today, due to high raw material costs, we will just prepare on request herbal cleansing with herbs and the famous "spirit of melissa" (administered as in antiquity on a sugar cube, useful to combat stomach pain). The pharmacy is open by appointment and, on a weekend in Gorizia, you should definitely plan a visit (for reservations call to 0481.531972).
WHERE TO EAT – Enoteca Majda
Enoteca first, then restaurant. Majda is this and loved it for its simplicity. A wine list varied and well-matched that walks hand in hand with a fairly good food and always oriented to the respect of the culinary tradition of Gorizia. from the kitchen, Katy the chef brings to the table dishes with strong flavors, based on seasonality, such as omelettes with fresh herbs of the field, gnocchi with porcini mushrooms, ravioli with wild boar sauce, the rabbit stew. All it accompanied by wines from not only but also by good beers of the local brewery Old County.
BREAK GOURMET – The Central pastry
Next to the theater of Gorizia, in the center and a stone's throw from City Hall (visit the garden and, on weekdays, the main floor) to jump to the Central pastry. Here you will find all the typical sweets tradition of Gorizia: gubana goriziana, fences, gugelhopf, putizza and beans. La gubana goriziana (different from that of Trieste and of the Natisone Valleys) is a cake made of puff pastry stuffed with dried fruit, raisins, citrus peel and spices. Calories incalculable but yummy. Enjoy a slice of gubana, It was initially a typical Easter sweet but today is all year, It will transport you immediately in the period of the Habsburgs.
The Soca River and walks in the parks
Gorizia is a very green city. Is, to experience its relaxed atmosphere as a Gorizia, We must absolutely take a walk along the Soca river. There are also areas equipped to do so, thanks to the well-kept parks and especially respected by the citizens. The Feather Bridge is one of the characteristic points to admire the blue waters of the Isonzo, born in the mountains between Tarvisio and Slovenia and which flows into the Adriatic Sea, between Monfalcone and Grado lagoon. The nature reserve Foce Isonzo it is visited.
What to buy in Gorizia
The covered market of Gorizia and several food shops around this liberty structure, I am another of the city's attractions. If on a weekend in Gorizia you really want to know the gastronomy and traditions Giuliani, you have to make a stop at the market.
Between the benches, lots of fruits and vegetables, including the famous nail mushrooms, of which Gorizia is a great producer (also in the under-version). Try herbs pink, pears' pectoral’ whose infusion is good for throat and respiratory, honey, the purple-collared white turnips with which you do the traditional brovada Dop. And of course the famous pink Gorizia radicchio which is a Pat (traditional food product) and a Slow Food.
To try and take home also the Liptauer, a kind of spreadable cheese (of MittelEuropean origin) ricotta-based, Capers, anchovy paste, gorgonzola, mustard and paprika. In Corso Verdi, the small workshop of Rudolf Rudi Ierman family processes the same recipe for over fifty years Liptauer: enjoy it in walking wapers. Also in the’market area c’is a designer bakery, by Teresa, where I suggest you buy a fragrant loaf with dried figs, typical of Gorizia and yummy with cheeses.
To buy typical products, in addition to the shops that gravitate around the covered market of Gorizia, you can go to the Gòdina supermarket. Here you will find a good selection of local products such as honey, La Goriziana-branded coffee, The Rose of Gorizia in lio, cheese (such as cheese trouble, mountain cheeses and sausages and the place such as the ham of Cormons, sweet and slightly smoked. The gastronomic souvenirs to take back home after spending a weekend in Gorizia are many and great quality.
Beyond food and wine souvenirs, on the course Italy you can also buy a precious handmade fuselat according to the purest artisan tradition of The Gortian.
BREAK GOURMET – Pastry L'Oca Golosa
Here is another address to mark the agenda during a weekend in Gorizia. TheGolosa Goose It is a small bar and pastry led by three young people under 30: Valentina, Frederick and Francis. At the tables, throughout Italy, leading to the train station, you can sip a cappuccino. And tempted to accompany it with a sweet tooth stuffed croissants and tiramisu well executed. The greedy goose uses only fresh and local produce, like Collio figs.
The workshop offers panettones, wholegrain biscuits (especially short-chain Friulane), cakes and the traditional gubana and Goritian pliers. Children's snacks were chosen by a panel of baby tasters. They are owed the Lambertina cake, the official sweet of the Gortian lace, decorated with sugar paste as a lace weave.
In the surroundings of Gorizia
If you decided to spend a weekend in Gorizia, you can not do without wine. The wines of Friuli Venezia Giulia find in the Collio area one of the greatest expressions. Visiting Gorizia also means finding a bit 'of time to visit some historical manufacturer of these areas. Primosic It is among them and its historic winery has always valued the indigenous variety Ribolla yellow. Dad Silvan, with her children, Boris e Marko, are custodians of a maceration of the grapes technique which has yielded to the company major awards.
On the hills of Oslavia, where in 1914 there were war and the fighting by gunfire, today there are vineyards that create extraordinary wines. In the basement, we met an old bottle of Tocai Primosic, that collar on the first of the Collio Consortium logo with the number one. Do not miss the Pinot grigio coppery, an elegant wine, to buy and keep for a special evening.