All you have to do, eat and buy in your journey between Marsala and Trapani. There is a special place in Sicily, where I never tire of return. Is the polar opposite compared to my Messina, and is the area bounded by the salt road, connecting Trapani to Marsala. A unique natural and cultural landscape where salt draws a fine line that joins the land to sea. A calm sea, closed from islands in a sort of lagoon inhabited since remote times, first by the elymians, then by the Phoenicians and Greci.Se you are or you'll be in Sicily, have a look to all my TRAVEL ITINERARY SICILIANI for ideas, inspiration and tips on where to eat, what to see and things to buy.
The first thing that strikes those who choose to take this route are the colors: the yellow stones, the blue sea, the green Mediterranean vegetation and the white salt. Trapani and Marsala are Windy City, where the air smells and smells different from the rest of Sicily. Both are first seaside town, of fishermen, but here we must never forget that just a few kilometres from the coasts and beaches there are cultivated fields (vineyards and fruit and vegetables) and farms. Here grow garlic by Nubia, melons “gialletti” Paceco, the watermelons, they produce the oil Dop Valli trapanesi, Marsala wine, the Doc Erice.
Get your walk along the main street, Via Vittorio Emanuele, overlooked by the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, with its Baroque façade and rich of arches, He cherishes a painting attributed to Van Dyck (the crucifixion), and the beautiful Baroque building of the Church and the Jesuit College. Don't miss the 14th century Church of Saint Augustine, piazzetta Saturno, and the Church of purgatory, that contains the 20 sacred groups of mysteries, the famous procession held during Holy week.
Leaving Trapani, from the port take the provincial route leading to Marsala (the County Road 21: the salt road), avoiding taking Hwy 113, passing farther from the coast. Stop in Nubia in buying red garlic (Slow food) and then stop for lunch at Saline Culcasi.
WHERE TO STAY IN TRAPANI: Trapani is a bustling and chaotic night, and I love the peace and quiet that I chose a place in the country, the Baglio Soria, resort of the winery Firriato. Salvatore Di Gaetano and his wife Vinzia Novara have restored a beam in the midst of 110 hectares of vineyards and olive groves, where everything revolves around wine, in what is a real ' wine experience '. The rooms are spacious and quiet, well appointed, and carried out respecting the original structure. The baglio del 1600 watch Egadi and Lake Paceco and preserves its charm thanks to a careful restoration and sensitive. Here I found a pool surrounded by Agave, a wine bar, one shop, a tasting room, a sky lounge. And a restaurant level realized by keeping inside the ancient millstone. In the resort, You can make several wine tasting experiences Firriato, with the help of young and competent sommelier: an opportunity to learn more about the elegant bubbles brut Saint Germain; the amazing Favinia The Muciara, a white from cricket, Catarratto and Zibibbo, that is the first wine from its vineyards in Favignana produces Firriato, that impresses with its strong citrus and floral scents and salinity; the curious Jasmin, made from Zibibbo grapes; the lavish Harmonium, a Nero d'Avola top that Sicily can boast, and the excellent Ecru, a raisin wine with intense aromas of honey and apricot, a wine never cloying and delicate to be discovered.
LE SALINE: And here we are at last at the wonderful set of Stagnone of Marsala, which includes several saline, the long island and an archipelago of small islands including Mozia. Many disused salt pans are, whereas in others it still works and the salt is harvested mechanically. In Saline Ettore e Infersa, instead, everything is done again as once: from sea water salt is born, that matures slowly. The workers collect by hand, using an ancient tradition unchanged until today. Among the many experiences you can do, I suggest the guided walk along the salt marshes: look at everything carefully and hold in the eye the windmills, the foam of salt that is lifted into the air, the crystals that form along the edges of stone tubs, water colors. Then, by boat (Departures every 30 minutes), go around the lagoon and try look the way, now underwater, two kilometers long and seven wide, that the Phoenicians built to connect Motya to the Mainland. A blast from the past.
MOZIA is a private island, owned by the Whitaker Foundation: people come here to admire and learn about the archaeological remains found by the English scholar Joseph Whitaker, who first made the excavations on the Phoenician island. In the Museum, between amphoras and precious artefacts, the statue of “Giovinetto di Mozia”. On the island, even experimental crops of vineyards: Here the company Tasca d'almerita produces a white wine: the “Cricket” Mozia. The whole complex of saline, natural reserve, is a magical place to take pictures. The best time is just before sunset, When the tanks are taking amazing colors. Is, If you're lucky, You can also admire the flamingos strolling in the water.
From a height of 750 metres high, with a historic center of just 512 inhabitants, ERICE is one of the most beautiful villages of Sicily. Of ancient origins, It was founded by the Elymians and is home to the Centre for scientific culture Ettore Maiorana. Known in antiquity as town of a hundred churches and convents, is dominated by the Norman castle, the castle of Venus, looking towards Mount Hood. You can visit the Cathedral of the assumption, with the treasure and a bell tower which offers a unique view over the Egadi and on Drills, St Peter's Church and the Palazzo Chiaramonte (Convent of San Domenico).
Continuing along the salt road you will arrive at MARSALA, founded by the Arabs and known mainly for Marsala wine and for the landing of Thousands of Garibaldi, in the Risorgimento. Is’ a little gem, Why is kissed by luck from the naturalistic point of view: stands on Capo Boeo and watch the Egadi Islands and the islands of the lagoon. Was once surrounded by walls and guarded by four doors: Today there are two, Porta Nuova and Porta Garibaldi.
Finally, in and around Marsala, in the locality of Petrosino, There is a unique place that I recommend to visit. This is an old Tuff quarry, from yellow walls to precipice, which has been given new life. Inside, In fact, they have settled on Dairy Impicciché and the nursery Zichittella. The scenario is "one thousand and one nights, because it seems to be in the Middle East, with Palm trees, olive trees, Cactus and oleander that fill the quarry with their bright green. The cheese factory, led by Giovanni, It produces 15 kinds of cheeses, made with sheep's milk. From fresh to those seasoned pecorino cheese, cheese with herbs to those seasoned in Marsala wine. Ask the Piddiato, a pasta filata cheese, or the Partisan, in two variants of red and black.