Homemade panettone, leavened the great par excellence, prepared following the specification of the original Milanese recipe. Three years ago I decided to confront for the first time with this sacred monster of Italian pastry (recipe Francesco Favorito) and the result was an excellent cake flavored cake. Obviously my fault, not the master Favorited.
I tried again last year (Recipe by Iginio Massari) and the Panettone has managed much better. The taste was the right one, but he had no vertical consistency, sleek and soft that you would expect from a panettone. I tried again this year with the cake recipe Rolando Morandin. And the result you see: I am satisfied, fatigue and sleep lost were not in vain.
Why l’yet another panettone?
Of course you can always improve, but I am satisfied: if you follow me on Instagram, in these years you will have seen all the path I have made and all my panettones. Now, on the net there are hundreds of recipes homemade panettone with yeast, some of which are very well written by bloggers who I admire and with leavened have a particularly good hand. Eva Salerno, Morena Roana, Gabila Gerardi, Cody Dalton, Anna Fernanda Nanula, Martina Toppi to name a few.
So why write another one, as the panettone Rolando Morandin have already done all their? The reason is only one: give you my personal advice and tell you about my personal experience. I start by suggesting you don't stop at my recipe, nor that of anyone else, but to read several of them, because in each you will find some helpful advice and valuable.
I followed Rolando Morandin's panettone recipe reported by Morena Roana, but I used the recipe of aromatic mix of master Francesco Favorito I had tried and loved the previous years. In addition to reading every possible post by the good bloggers I mentioned above. There are also tips on Panettone Homemade Eva (Fables of Sugar).
Let's start with some basic points: the Milanese panettone is done only with the YEAST MOTHER. You can not follow this recipe if you use the yeast. There are some with beer yeast on the net, They will certainly be good but is no recipe for panettone or pandoro. They're other sweets, with other scents, tastes and textures). If you promise you a cake in 6 hours for rising, it's not a panettone. And still, it's not enough to have sourdough, It must be in force, able to lift a heavy mass and rich in butter, eggs and more. Then, you'll have to refresh the yeast once a day for at least 7 consecutive days. The day when you will make the first mixture, you'll have to refresh him three times with the doses that will point.
The quality’ Ingredients must be of the best possible: fresh eggs, Yellow paste, spin butter, soft and fresh candied (not those shrunken supermarket, to be clear. I buy them patisseries of Messina) . And obviously the FLOUR should be a specific flour for the cake and the big typically leavened: I used flour for panettone Molino From Giovanna. With this flour also you have to do all the refreshments yeast. You need to prepare the MIX AROMATICO with one or two days in advance so that you insaporisca. I used a custom mix, not as expected in the recipe of Morandin, because I added in small candied orange cream for a more intense flavor.
You need to prepare the raisin for the Milanese panettone yesterday. All the ingredients, sugar and flour excluded, must be cold from the refrigerator, as well as the bowl and the beaters you will use (hook and spiral) They must be put in the freezer for at least 3 hours before starting the first mixture. The room in which you will work the cake has to be cold, turn off heating.
Need a Thermometer from KITCHEN, because the temperature of the mixture is important. If the dough for the cake gets too hot to be cooled (in the freezer for 10 minutes) and if it is too cold the yeast will start with hours and hours of delay. The DOSES are for 2 panettone from a pound each, I think it is not worth to make one only. Remember to get a cake from a pound'll have to put in paper cups 1,1 pounds of dough.
The recipe for homemade panettone is long, laboriously, It will make you feel anxious and losing sleep: do not skip any steps, although it will be late at night. And know that, unless you're experienced enough of leavened or have not the classic beginner's luck, difficult to get a perfect cake. But you can always improve, and then you are done with your hands to your loved ones.
INGREDIENTS FOR THE FIRST MIXING (about 20 hours)
230 grams of yeast
460 grams of specific flour for panettone or otherwise force greater than 350 W (preferably between 370W and 390W)
180 grams of extra fine granulated sugar
260 grams of egg yolks (about 13 yolks, but always pesateli)
160 milliliters of natural mineral water
280 grams of soft butter (at room temperature 12 hours)
INGREDIENTS FOR THE SECOND DOUGH:
around the first mixture
120 grams of flour (the same one that you used in the first mixture)
12 grams of salt
30 grams of extra fine granulated sugar
50 grams of egg yolks (about 2 egg yolks and a half, but weight it)
60 grams of soft butter at room temperature
70 grams of aromatic mix
260 grams of candied orange and / or cedar
260 grams of raisins (* Read carefully raisins treatment)
FOR MIX AROMATIC:
50 grams of wildflower honey
70 grams of candied orange peel
seeds 2 Bourbon vanilla beans
grated zest of 2 oranges and organic lemon
REFRESHING THE MOTHER YEAST:
The leaven should be refreshed as usual every day for at least 7 days using the same flour that you will use to prepare the panettone. For the cake you need the solid yeast, does not fit the Licola. The day when you will make the first mixture, expected at around 20, you have to refresh the yeast for three times in a row and, before making the new refreshment, wait until the yeast has more than doubled (It should double in 4 hours or less). The rising must take place in a warm environment, to about 28 degrees.
REFRESH FIRST (8 o'clock in the morning): refurbish 100 grams of yeast with 200 grams of flour and 100 milliliters of mineral water at 26 degrees.
REFRESH SECOND (12 am): refurbish 200 grams of yeast with 300 grams of flour and 135 milliliters of mineral water at 26 degrees
REFRESH THIRD (16 pm): refurbish 200 grams of yeast with 200 grams of flour and 100 milliliters of mineral water at 26 degrees
THE MIX AROMATIC:
It must be prepared with one or two days in advance compared to the first mixture: pounded in a mortar and grind the candied orange cream. Add the vanilla, The wildflower honey and orange peel and finely grated lemon. Mix everything, covered with contact food film and stored in the refrigerator until used.
It is weighted, soaked in boiling water for 15 minutes, then drained carefully and wrapped in sheets of absorbent paper, layered, and stored in a refrigerator overnight (I prepared it together with the aromatic mix and left it in the refrigerator to drain for two days).
It must be dissolved in the quantity of WATER and the liquid stored in the refrigerator because it must be cold.
They should be weighed so as to have them ready when you do the first and then the second dough. the egg yolks must be untied with a fork so as to obtain a cream, covered with plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator. FLOUR goes it sifted twice and stored at room temperature. BUTTER It must be weighed and left at room temperature for at least 12 hours, covered with plastic wrap: for panettone need a soft butter but you never even think about melt in the microwave.
Weigh the yeast, do it in small pieces and put it in the bowl of the kneading machine along with all the solution of water and sugar. Work the yeast and water with the leaf hook until the yeast has softened, it will take about 10 minutes because the water will be cold. Add half of the flour and mix until a thick paste, No clumps. At this point, remove the leaf and put the hook tool. Add more times the remaining flour, alternating it with eggs. Be careful, because the eggs need to be added slowly so that the dough does not become too soft or too hard: as they add eggs and flour, the dough of the panettone will begin to take shape, taking what is called 'framing': a smooth mass, homogeneous and gradually more and more lucid, that twists like a rope around the kneading machine hook. The scaffolding is fundamental for the success of a good leavened: if the dough tears and separates, it can be difficult to recover. Another key thing is the temperature; measure the temperature of the dough every 10 minutes and remember that a good dough, Eventually, You should never exceed 26 degrees. The closing ideal temperature of the first mixture will be between 24 and 26 degrees.
When you finish the egg and flour, add the soft butter, again on several occasions and always keeping the frame. Work at the minimum speed of the kneading machine so that the dough does not warm too much. If the scaffolding is well made, in about 45 minutes the first dough is ready: polished, smooth, smooth and elastic. When the dough comes off perfectly from the walls of the bowl leaving them dry, is ready. Pour the panettone dough on the work top, Round off giving it the shape of a ball (pirlatura) and put it in a transparent container whose capacity allows the dough to triple the volume. Also take a graduated container (is fine glass of Pimero) and put 100 grams of dough: when the dough in the graduated container has tripled, ie reached 300, you will know that even the dough in the large containers will have tripled their volume and that you can proceed to the second dough. The leavening must be at 28 degrees: I put the first dough into rectangular transparent plastic containers, covered with a shower cap disposable (new obviously), in the oven with light on and a thermometer probe that detects the temperature set to 29 degrees. If it sounds, Slightly open the oven to slightly lower the temperature. It is not possible to give you a precise time in which the dough can triple: it will take 9-12 hours depending on the closing temperature of the dough and the environment in which it is located. To me it has tripled in less than 9 hours. Remember to put the kneading bowl back in the freezer so you can have it cold when you start working on the second dough.
When the first mixture has tripled (don't discount the dough, otherwise then the second dough rising times will grow dramatically), place in refrigerator for 30 minutes so as to cool slightly before processing. While the dough is in the refrigerator prepare on the table all the ingredients you will need for processing. Once after 30 minutes, put the first dough back in the kneading machine and start processing by combining the sugar first and then the flour: work the dough with the hook at the minimum speed for 10 minutes or until it is again. The duration of the machining of the second mixture should be significantly lower than that of the first: to me only it took 25 minutes compared to 50 of the first mixture.
Once the dough is again (mine was strung immediately, without any problem), add egg yolks in 3 times. When all the yolks will be absorbed, add butter to the dough, salt and aromatic mix, alternately in stages. When all these ingredients are absorbed, the dough will be shiny, incordato, smooth and, pulling a piece, you should be able to get the famous 'veil', a thin layer of dough, almost transparent. At this point you just have to add the so-called 'suspensions', that is, the candied and raisins, cold and treated as I have explained above: add them and work the dough for a minute, then stop the kneading machine and flip the dough a couple of times with your hands and work it again for a minute. The suspensions must be well amalgamated in the dough, which must always be strung.
Once you have completed the second dough, put it on the work surface (Never use flour, the limit if you really must, you can lightly butter the work plan, but if you use a sheet of silpat or have the steel floor there will not even butter) and divide it according to the cups you have chosen: you have to get two loaves from 1,1 kilogram each if you have chosen one kilo each panettone. Round the two doughs by pinching them and leave the dough in the air for an hour (Pointing). The welding serves to relax the gluten mesh that was formed with the processing, making it more elastic and more structured. the pirlatura, which gives the dough a regular spherical shape and a certain height, it is fundamental for the subsequent development in leavening and baking of panettone because it causes the glutinic mesh to consolidate further by trapping air inside and creating a kind of drier and more consistent skin on the outside.
After an hour's rest, re-put the doughs and leave them back in the air for 30 minutes. After thirty minutes, do another pirlatura and let the air rest another 30 minutes, finally make one last pirlatura, the final one that will give shape to your cake and gently insert it into the mold.
The second rise should be, always theoretically, faster than the first: if the dough is well made and closed at the right temperature (About 25 degrees), it will take 5 to 7 hours, but as always it depends on too many variables. Cover the molds with food film and let rise to 28 degrees until the dough arrives at the edge of the mold . My doughs are arrived at the edge of the mold in 5 hours.
When the dough has arrived at the edge of the mold, remove the food film and leave it for 45 minutes in the air, so that is formed on a surface resistant film, which will then help you make the cuts to panettone without problems. After 45 minutes, put the dough gently in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to At this point the cake will be increased further, surpassing the edge of the mold. All you have to do is make the so-called 'engraving', or make a cross-cut on the surface of panettone, using a razor blade or the appropriate cutter, If you want, you can also 'shoe' the panettone, ie, partially cut surface 4 flaps of dough, to focus a little butter and riaccostare 4 flaps on butter. Preheat the oven to 170 degrees.
Bake the cake by placing it on a baking tray placed on the lowest shelf of the oven, so that the development of the dome will not be obstructed. A panettone from kilo must cook about 50 minutes and get to the heart at a temperature comprised between 92 and 94 degrees: I recommend you measure the temperature of your panettone putting a probe thermometer to the center after 50 minutes of cooking and, if he had not arrived at the right temperature, leave it a few more minutes. Remember, in the first 30 minutes of cooking, We must never and under no circumstances open the oven, otherwise you will lose heat and this will harm the development in the area.
Once cooked, panettone goes skewered with the special irons (I bought them on Amazon) or with irons sharp stocking (They will pierce the cups without deforming the panettone), flipped over and left hanging in the air for 12 hours. After 12 hours you can package it: I bought some very large bags and I sprayed them with plenty of pure alcohol at 95 degrees for food (they sell it in all supermarkets because it is used to make homemade liqueurs, It helps keep the cake and keeps it softer). In this way I guarantee (from experience) that the cake will last at least three weeks soft and fragrant. I can not tell whether it can last longer because our are over before, but have the patience to wait at least 5 days prior to sample your panettone, the taste will vastly gains. Have a good day!