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Restaurant Des Alpes – Bad Schoergau (South Tyrol)

by Ada Parisi

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Eclectic, passionate discoverer and user of typical local ingredients that shines with new life, elegant and with a colour vision plates, Egon Heiss is the chef of the gourmet restaurant Des Alpes in Bad Schoergau, in the Sarntal, South Tyrol, 20 km north of Bolzano. The kitchen of this young chef, He has 34 years, is slight and well calibrated and I was very impressed by the chromaticism of his dishes, rich colors and unusual combinations but always on time, not only the tastes and textures, often played on variations of a single item.

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The restaurant has just 15 seats, divided into two halls, intimate and informal, and attentiveness of the wait staff and kitchen is run down to the smallest detail. There are two tasting menus are always present, a traditional style and an innovative. The characteristic note of this chef is the fun that transpires evident from dishes and especially by the swirl of small flows that prepare to the main ones.

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The chef's welcome is a deployment of small appetizers to be discovered, served on plates, Driftwood, wooden and iron stands created by the Egon Heiss: I have tasted fried quail eggs, Goose liver ice cream, butters (amazing that mountain pine bath), a reinterpretation of the Sarner's snack (Bacon and rye bread), delicious croissants with beef tartare and cream cheese. Mountain pine and a consommé of venison then iced Green Apple with foie gras ice cream and almonds. All played on a judicious balance between local ingredients, the lightness, the taste and color.

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Really interesting variation of Granny Smith apples in three textures with duck liver Terrine and almonds, very simple and fresh smoked salmon with a colourful Pea Salad, oranges, wild asparagus, watercress and radishes.

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A little’ less compelling Norway lobster in variation of cauliflower, penalized by an excess of salt in the pot and cooking definitely excessive linguine that covered the prawn simulating a paccheri Raghavan. Nice idea but you have to work at it a little more.

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Particular the entrée to main course, the ' Lamb ' greeting: a lamb carpaccio with fleur de sel, mustard, and watercress sprouts. Well made but little surprising the lamb in potato crust with Bacon and chives, Asparagus and onions.

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Delicious, complex and fun the swirl of pre dessert: nice combination of goat ice cream, pickled PEAR, gorgonzola and black bread; sparkling (in a literal sense) the Blueberry cream macaron cassis and gorgonzola; refreshing Strawberry ice cream with lemon and crystallized violets tapioca. The sweet simplicity, freshness and acidity are charged, with a nice balance between yogurt cream, vanilla ice cream, rhubarb Compote, cheese pie with brioche and raspberries.

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Then an unusual deployment of Petit Fours, starting from bee sting, a wafer, almonds with honey, pollen, sprouts of watercress and vanilla cream. A fabulous tarte au chocolat, a delicious coconut Praline with passion fruit mousse and yoghurt mousse and strawberries with chocolate mold

The prices are absolutely competitive: the tasting menus are at 80-90 euros per person. Wine tasting paired with the dishes is offered at a cost of 30 euro for 4 wines.