Accomplices Christmas holidays, I decided to try a few more bars in my city, Messina. Among these “Yeast“, a franchised format which opened last spring in piazza Duomo, obviously central and recently become pedestrian. I always had doubts about formulas in franchising, but this time I was pleasantly surprised. The subtitle of this venue is “Pizza & beer” Why are paper craft beers selected, rustic home made sweets and also accompanying. The idea is to two entrepreneurs calabresi, Rocco Campos (baking expert and creator of the pub “Popularity Malt” in Reggio Calabria) and Francesco Donato (beer expert), who first opened a first in Reggio Calabria and later, from April 2016, they decided to replicate across the Strait, entrusting the management of the pizzeria of Messina to five partners, with the idea of landing in London (opening date scheduled late January 2017), and plans to open also in Rome and other cities of Sicily, as Palermo and Catania. Yeast is in a strategic position, in the Centre of Messina: the furnishings are basic (almost Spartans), played natural shades of green and Brown. Resin chairs, well spaced tables and spacious, modern lighting but not homogeneous. The restaurant is built on several levels and in different environments and is a bit’ noisy, also because – from what I have seen – It's popular.
Everything starts from “Plato”, the name of yeast used both in Reggio Calabria is in Messina, converted from a starter obtained from craft beer. The method used to work the selection of wholemeal flour (the addition of a small amount of flour of the type double zero) is that natural bakery. The choice is to bring to maturity the dough for a minimum of 48 hours and up to 72 hours, in order to make the dough crispy and crumbly, light and digestible. The menu of “Yeast” is mainly due to the concept of local street food: arancini, potato croquettes, meatballs, Eggplant meatballs, fresh French fries (with onions, spices, frankfurters). But also cheese fondue (8 euro, served with fried pizza), bruschetta (from 3,5 to 4,5 euros), cold appetizers (6,5 euros), sandwiches (7 euros), salads served on a bed of warm focaccia and crusty (8 euro).
We tried several appetizers: fresh French fries (from 3,5 euros), Eggplant meatballs, meat and potato croquettes (the mix at 5 euros) and the mixture of arancini, always a 5 euro, available in three variants, with ham and cheese, with Pistachio, Bacon and smoked cheese and finally with nduja. The stir fry was crispy, altogether light and not oily. I found particularly good arancini, stuffed with tasty without being savory and especially with a rice cooked to perfection, al dente. Note for the ' nduja Calabrian arancino, spicy but with balance, Nice homage to the origins of pizza Baking. While French fries, cut into wedges with Peel and served hot in a clay shard, have been penalized by the container that has as its purpose to maintain warmth. Excessive heat, In fact, he softened and have completely lost crispness, Although the flavor was still good. I would suggest, then, the use of a simple paper bag fried and, Maybe, some homemade sauce instead of mayonnaise and ketchup industrial brands. Good meatballs, tasty and well cooked; well done even the Tater Tots. Less good Eggplant dumpling, because in the mix, there was an excess of breadcrumbs and eggplant taste was way too under track.
We come to the pizzas, that are cooked in a stone oven, to ensure a uniform temperature, than a wood-burning oven, who needs a more accurate management. Among the pizzas, We tried a typically Sicilian version, that the standard, with the classic topping of fried eggplant, Fior di latte, baked tomato and ricotta (Alternatively you can choose the Parmesan), three ingredients that come together in most taverns and farm holidays in the province of Messina, and not only, in the famous recipe of macaroni to standard. Crusty pizza dough, with massive cornice and browned. Pizza topped with a knife and slice cut proof good eaten with hands: dry dough, not saggy, with a balanced but tasty dressing.
The second pizza we ordered was the “Rianata”, a memory of the focaccia is widespread in western Sicily, between Trapani and Marsala, tomato-based, pecorino cheese, oregano, anchovies and soft layers of red onion cooked in beer. We asked for an addition of buffalo milk mozzarella, After the pizza came to the table. They accommodated immediately putting the pizza in the oven for 30 seconds. This pizza Rianata deserved the bis and tris: is fragrant, tasty, fragrant, balanced flavors and seasoned to perfection, without excess.
Among other proposals, In addition to classic as Daisy, the Four Seasons and the Volatile, even the “Al Pachino” (Pachino tomatoes, Buffalo milk mozzarella and lamb's lettuce); “Popularity malt” (mozzarella, smoked cheese, Pistachio and bacon cooked in beer); Hops (buffalo milk mozzarella, baked potato crumble, Red Onion cooked in beer and Rosemary). Prices range from 4 euros to 9 euros. Interesting pizza version proposal “stretch”, that is stretched thin, resulting in crisper. The service was a pleasant surprise: the young staff were attentive, prepared and fast. The waiters are trained and in turn become trainers of other staff, with the idea of making the team and to transmit a uniform knowledge.
Beer list focused for now on some Italian handcraft producers like lombardo Beer Ethnicity, the abruzzese “Almond 22”, the brewery “The 5 Malts” of Messina. But the local David Campbell and David decided to produce some of these breweries of brand products “Yeast”, as the “Lievitripel” (in full Belgian tradition) or the “Sexappils”, offered on tap. The prices are contained: It starts from 3 euros to 13 euros.
Homemade desserts, between 4 and 5 euro, including the birramisu (light and well done, with a background of bitter beer in Savoy), the cheesecake, frozen desserts (almond, coffee and pistachio) and ice cream. Highly recommended if you want to eat a good pizza and digest it perfectly.
(Visited in January 2017)