In his beloved Pozzuoli, Salvatore Santucci drives Ammaccamm pizzeria (Peperino group). The restaurant is located off the nerve center of Pozzuoli, or alleys that intersect in the marina area, and it is nestled on the scenic hill overlooking the harbor, with eyes always pointed to the Rione Terra. Right in Rione Terra began the story of this pizzeria, rightly become one of the references of quality pizza in Naples and its province. The word “Ammaccamm”, in Neapolitan dialect, It indicates that the gesture is accomplished by squeezing a dough. that gesture, Salvatore Santucci, which he has 46 years, He is performing it since he was only 12, age when for the first time he set foot on the counter of the pizza maker. The great experience and rigor in the approach to regulate pizza production, Santucci have made one of the greatest experts on dough. This pizza maker, eclectic and passionate, It is now master instructor of the Association Verace Pizza Napoletana. And the first of its menu page contains a proud reference to the art of Neapolitan pizza maker, included in the UNESCO Intangible Heritage (Unesco). To Santucci, This pride is a feeling to be shown, guard, hand down.
It is not correct to define Salvatore Santucci a Taliban pizza, nor a fundamentalist. Santucci is both an orthodox pizza maker is careful and intelligent investigator. Is’ Its the choice to use different flours according to the seasons and, sometimes, depending on weather conditions (based on the variations of temperature and humidity). By partnering with Molino Pasini, Santucci teacher has studied three different blends of flour: summer, Winter and triticuma. And it is studying the hallmark of Santucci, his constant experimentation with ingredients, temperature, serving suggestions.
The palette created by Santucci, he calls “the workshop of the mixtures”, It is an ode to this ongoing experiment. Its doughs are all obtained from flour of type double zero and zero type, with leavening long or very long. There are 12 types of dough of the pizzeria “Ammaccamm”: charcoal (nero), hemp, bran, Sesame, curcuma, arso grain, red quinoa, Black Sesame, beetroot and a dough to the nine cereals. The mixtures with bran, Sesame, black sesame and red quinoa provide for the addition of the ingredient on the surface of the pizza. The other dough, instead, have the ingredient inside. The Ammaccamm laboratory uses for all pizzas a mix of yeast and yeast. There will also be a specific mixture for celiac (on request). The traditional pizza dough is to “veracious” (with flour of the type double zero and zero type, leavening of 30 hours of mixed beer yeast and yeast): a mixture supported, with a cornice not too pronounced, a soft disk, but absolutely not yielding, great taste. While the Triticuma, that the dough is designed by the same Santucci, It is a double-zero flour blend and zero, with a percentage of bran and wheat germ, and rising to 48 hours, instead of to 30 hours.
The pizzeria fresh products follow a precise protocol: Storage nothing but daily deliveries, which ensure maximum freshness possible to condiments. Santucci has personally chosen its suppliers within their region, selecting those companies that do not use preservatives and dyes. As for all the other ingredients, The companies were selected personally, identifying also the lesser known, with taste test of each product to be included in the menu. Extra virgin olive oil, tomatoes,sauces, flours, salt and all that is over and into the pizza is carefully chosen and exhibited inside the pizzeria, which has a beautiful open garden and, inside, It decorated in a minimalist style, with large iron tables and chairs, gray walls or brick. A minimalist decor, essential and airy. Steer the large bar area where they work pizza makers, with oven behind.
Among the starters Ammaccamm serves classic and inevitable sequence of Neapolitan frying: potato potato croquettes, Pasta's omelettes, Mozzarella and kumquat. We fly over sull'arancino, which unfortunately he showed the usual defects of consistencies, mainly due to excessive cooking rice. The flavor was good, but we are very strict Sicilian sull'arancino. Excellent omelette pasta, the crocché potato soft and tasty and really by applause mozzarella in a carriage, with a crispness on the outside and a large scioglievolezza and internal softness. The fried perfectly executed as a whole, crispy and not greasy. The prices of appetizers ranging from three euro simple fried to 8,50 of Capri. The mixed fried fish that we tested costs 6 Euros. Even among the starters, fried ammaccatielli: strips of fried pizza. Or even the real fried pizza with various toppings and their (5 to 12 €). To complete the menu the “pagnottielli” Neapolitan (5 to 10 €), or of sandwiches made with pizza dough.
We come to the pizzas. Prices range from 5 euro to 12 euro of marinara pizza with yellowfin tuna, red onion, black olives, yellow tomato piennolo, capers and fennel seeds. We tasted two, a more traditional and with more particular ingredients and combinations. The pizza alla parmigiana, realized with true dough bran, is a masterpiece. Salvatore Santucci, in this pizza it expresses the great Neapolitan tradition not only pizza, but also the kitchen, parmigiana with a resounding. The dough is crispy results and cooked to perfection, and the passage in the bran makes it more rustic and full-bodied. The cornice devoid of burns, evenly developed. Besides the high-quality ingredients, the mozzarella of Agerola San Marzano tomatoes, honorable mention for the large portion of eggplant parmesan sprinkled on pizza. A parmigiana among the best ever taste in all of Naples.
The second pizza proven to Ammaccamm pizzeria is called “red Mill”. It is in a range of gourmet proposals that Salvatore Santucci inserts into his menus. A dough with flour double zero and zero, rising minimum of 30 hours with beer and yeast yeast, with the addition of a 20% red beet which makes it more pronounced and flavorful taste and slightly heavier than the dough. The dressing is a complex balance with ricotta cream Dop, mozzarella di Bufala Dop, San Marzano tomatoes dehydrated, spicy uncooked cheese, Black pepper berries “cubed”, pumpkin seeds and sunflower and Campania Ham. A rich pizza, very tasty, perhaps a tad heavy for temperatures in June in Campania. The again I would try to November.
The service is good and fast. Between drinks, as well as a selection of wines predominantly from Campania, you can also choose a craft beer, both bell provenance, both coming from the rest of Italy. The price of it is covered 1,50 euro.
The pizza menu also closes the Ammaccamm desserts: Santucci fact offers among the true dessert dough fried, served with “galamella” (the bell hazelnut cream made with the extra virgin olive oil). For those who prefer a classic dessert (and lighter) there are the cakes of pastry chef Anna Chiavazzo. Or, truffles Gay Odin, or craft parfaits Marigliano. Again great selection of suppliers. We tried a homemade almond semifreddo, luscious and covered with caramelized almonds. Prices of desserts ranging from 5 euro of frozen desserts to 10 € the fried pizza.
Capomazza Square – Pozzuoli (Napoli)
(visited in June 2018)