Thirty years, concentrated on the kitchen and no shackles on my mind, energetic and smiling, Cannalire Andrea is the youngest star chef di Puglia, award received in 2015, shortly after it arrived at the restaurant of the Relais La Sommità Ostuni Heaven, replacing the already starry Sebastiano Lombardi. In the kitchen there is only Andrea, and forcefully, the region that gave him birth, but all that the world can enrich and ennoble a plate. The zero kilometer is the principle that regulates the maniacally Cannalire choices, in a rich list, and through five different tasting menu, always manages to amaze technical and combinations. A student of Matias Perdomo at the starry Pont de Ferr in Milan until 2014, Cannalire is one of those chefs who like to really be in the kitchen to work with the brigade, to check that everything works perfectly. Far, by nature, by the sirens of media and television circus, You are always looking for new ideas to perfect technique and expressiveness.
Heaven, really set on the top of Ostuni, White City, is a modern restaurant in the culinary style and solidly classical aesthetics: proceeds in the lower floors of the old building, It offers a warm atmosphere due to rough stone walls, soft lights, furnishings ceramics of Grottaglie artists and works of art that make the restaurant and the entire relay some sort of exhibition gallery, where works of art (many of them in a modern style that contrasts nicely with the environment) you can see but also buy.
The Relais La Sommità, of which the starry restaurant spearhead, It is housed in an old seventeenth century building, renovated in a minimalist way and respecting the natural severity of the structure by the present owner, Gianfranco Mazzoccoli (Cedat founder of Group 85). Just 15 rooms, with wellness and spa area and a wonderful orange garden, The Summit is one of the historic buildings of Ostuni and dominates the city, to more than two hundred meters above sea level. From the terraces you can enjoy one of the most beautiful views of Ostuni on the embattled coast and a cocktail at sunset, either on the terrace or by the pool, among the orange trees and flowering succulents, is an experience that you will remember for a long time.
Andrea Cannalire really made a mess: before the hotel management school, Then valuable experience at the restaurant starry “Already under the Arch” Carovigno, an internship at Villa Crespi Antonino Cannavacciuolo, and a period in Ispra Schuman restaurant with Silvio Battistoni. Then the most significant steps, Unique restaurant in Milan with Fabio Baldassarre and above the starry Pont de Ferr, also in Milan, when it was led by the eclectic Matias Perdomo: “Perdomo – He explained Andrea – It changed the terms of employment, with him it grows up in a hurry”. The patron of the Relais La Sommità, Gianfranco Mazzoccoli, She gave him carte blanche in the kitchen (Mazzoccoli is a gourmet and a passionate discoverer of new talent) and Cannalire could set its cuisine in a very personal way, “not to create a local copy. Or, yes to the Apulian product but not what everyone”.
The gourmet formula starred restaurant is completed, at lunch, by another proposal, that of the bistro, closer to regional recipes, affordably priced and definitely try. On the table, comes the bread basket with burnt wheat, but al, with Sesame, but also buns with tomato and with olives. We tasted a very good tortelli stuffed with pheasant, Guinea fowl and duck, glazed in their own juice. Among the second, a cut of beef with mixed vegetables and hollandaise sauce. While, among the desserts, stands out the dark chocolate ganache Fried (a sort of arancino made entirely of chocolate) with a fresh raspberry coulis. In the same room where you can dine in the bistro, the morning is prepared breakfast, all made in Puglia and home made. On the table, the fabulous Puglia dairy (ricotta, mozzarella, recycled e burrate) but also capocollo Martina Franca (company Santoro), focaccia with olives and cherry tomatoes, leavened cakes and both sweet and savory, preserves and sweets made from the kitchen of the restaurant Cielo, as well as the extraordinary proposals eggs in different ways, Serve well even at breakfast, and served expressed.
At the base of the chef menu Cannalire, the restaurant Cielo, there is the idea to introduce its own kitchen, or present a coherent tasting journey with your own style, especially those who approach for the first time to dishes. Intelligently, the proposal tasting menu is divided into five: “water” for the seafood menu and “fire” for ground menus, the first at 85 € and the second at 75 €, and both four-course. In the menu “uneven” Cannalire instead acts freehand with ten, 0:14 course, respectively at the price of 130, 140 and 160 euro. We opted for the 10-course menu. It starts with a long series of colorful and curious finger food, that behind the small size hide a high level of mastery of cooking techniques: from extremely crisp phyllo-pizza (phyllo dough topped with extra virgin olive oil, oregano and tomato powder) the blown pasta with cream and pea shoots, through the wheat guns blazed stuffed with goat cheese (delicatissimi) and the more traditional Baci di Dama with Parmigiano Reggiano with paté of black olives.
And still, Creative notes: Spherification the olive “Bella di Cerignola”, intense flavor and tangy just wonderful Apulian olive, the subtle and delicious Oreo with squid and black mascarpone. Very interesting the blown cod tripe with bearnaise sauce and sour onions, as well as the marshmallow of Parmigiano Reggiano and tomato. Pleasantly buttery and with a tasty balance between salt and sugar, The white sesame wafer and cocoa grué (cocoa bean kernels). Finally, the bon bon Aperol, where a shell of cocoa butter contains a liquid filling from the known characteristics amarostiche dell'Aperol: perfect to close the parentheses and begin the actual dinner.
Starters begin with a small green pepper: in fact it is the reconstruction of a pepper friggitello, which encloses inside a mashed beans. A tribute to one of the most typical dishes of Puglia. It proceeds with a red shrimp marinated in salt and oil Frantoio Muraglia, served on emulsion of almond milk and pulp of sea urchins, through various shades of sweet nuances.
The large Cannalire technical Strikes noodles with scallops in miso: a plate of oriental inspiration made ambitious way. The scallop is pureed, put into pastry bag and siringata to give the fish the form of noodles in 50 degree oil, where it is cooked, and then served in a miso soup, with black sesame, 8 their fairness of sesame oil would put just a drop in less because he has a very strong scent) and Spherification white cauliflower. Then, a very balanced podolica sushi, with salmon roe, nori seaweed and bearnaise sauce with beetroot.
more rustic and concrete plate, instead, il fish and chips, where the chips are integrated in fish: gambero, squid and cod fillets are breaded in chips “Pringles” and served with three sauces all plant, made with red pepper, yellow pepper and onion. Even the change log impiattamento, in an ironic and playful self: fried fish (crisp and dry) It served in the jar of fries and sauces in the typical 'bottles’ that are found in all the hot tables.
Among the dishes, in our opinion, There are the best plin with squid ink, with a strong ricotta liquid filling, pulp of sea urchins and tomato water, with the addition of anchovies. The dough thin and crispy, the taste of ricotta forte clearly perceptible but softened by a touch of cream, the sweetness of sea urchins and the combination of water-acid savory tomato with casting make this original and well-balanced dish, in which the Puglia back again protagonist, with elegance.
Then comes to the table a risky and highly personal review of carbonara: a croissant dough slightly, wrapped in the pillow, with a soft, creamy filling made with egg and pecorino cheese. A bold and delicious dish, determined by the flavor. Since this is not a light meal, It should properly evaluate whether to propose it in a 10-course marathon. Good, a round, robust taste, tortelli stuffed with veal cheek, braised for 48 hours, accompanied by a sweet and delicate creamy sauce of eggplant and smoked mozzarella water (some’ too salty).
Yet, the funny version of Cannalire of cod fish, served like an ice cream cone fell on the plate. The cod is one of the best ever tasted: creamy, with the right consistency, not oily, at the right point of salt. Perfect pairing with the sauce of red pepper. The long series of savory dishes ends with the sandwich with Iberian pluma: performance in mini version of a dish of the restaurant Pont de Ferr in Milan (Iberian pluma with burrata and sea urchins), homage to the chef Matias Perdomo.
Sweetest's homage to his father Andrea Cannalire, who ran a poultry farm: “egg and flour” It is a high technical level dessert, but where the technique is functional to taste. A taste almost childlike, that of sweet creme brulee,, soft, enclosed in a perfect imitation of white chocolate egg and cocoa butter, that is served in the classic plastic containers for chicken eggs, and then laid on a fake flour, made with condensed milk, maltodextrin and white chocolate.
The dining room service is very precise, professional and attentive. The dishes are explained in detail. The attention to customer needs is greatest. The staff does not take an excessively formal attitude, And will always friendly and very polite. The wine list (with reload appropriate to the structure) It is very broad, structured on a wide range of Apulian wines, that can not miss. But the breath is international, with wines from around the world and the main production areas. To visit, La cantina, carved into the ground below the floor of the dining room. Another hidden jewel of the Relais La Sommità.
Via Scipione Petrarolo, 9 – Ostuni (Brindisi)
(visited in May 2018)