Reviews: Quality and balance. The challenge de “The tailors of taste” in Cagliari

A former high fashion boutiques where today, instead of sewing machines, ring out pots and pans: in Cagliari, in the city centre, Gianluca Fanni and Richard Massaiu in the small restaurant Tailors of taste, 20 places just, make a kitchen “tailored”, with seasonal and special attention to the presentation. Two young boys, one from the hotel and the other from legal studies but with a great desire to change life, they realized their dream from a friendship and a common passion, that for good food. The name of the restaurant, open for about a year, joins that of Richard's blog, Le vie del gusto, with the trade of Gianluca's grandfather, the tailoring. It so happened that the premises where now stands the tailors of taste, they were those of a small boutique: a beautiful tapestry in shades of gray and silver and black marble floor remained intact, While the rest of the room was decorated in a minimalist, with lots of white and grey and small touches of color. The kitchen, clean and concise, combines traditional style with bright and unexpected found inspiration: not all dishes are still perfect, but all are an excellent starting point towards something bigger and mature. Sometimes, would only need a few small addition, a moment of reflection in addition to the deck to find that particular makes the difference. I'm sure, with time, Riccardo and Gianluca will close the circle and to perfect the recipes you have in the heart.

In the kitchen 3 people besides the chef Riccardo, While Gianluca manages the Hall. The proposal is that of a tasting menu that changes almost every day for lunch, with a more streamlined, and dinner, with a convenient 4-course formula 38 euro (becoming 55 euros with wine pairings), with chef's welcome, tasting of oils, pre dessert included. The paper, that changes every two weeks, includes a choice of 4 appetizers (14-17 euro), 4 first (14-17 euro), 6 seconds between land and sea (17-19 euro) and 3 desserts (7-8 euro). The tasting, It has no plate with the a la carte selection, It is obviously much more convenient than individual dishes, who on average prices rather supported. We opted for the tasting menu and 4 à la carte. The chef was a welcome capocollo di Martina Franca on hoe to lentils and fried leeks. Simple and tasty.

Bread to 5 cereal and potato cakes are made by the chef with sourdough, While the carasau bread comes from Oliena: I particularly enjoyed the fact that, together with bread, There has been served for tasting extra virgin olive oil Riola Sardo and, Later, between the first and second dish, a Sicilian oil: in both cases the maitre d ' explained the characteristics of the oils, the type of cultivar and the possible combinations. Fantasic. For the tasting menu, as a starter came a marinated salmon on fennel salad, radishes, mustard grains, fennel, cucunci (caper berries) and mango coulis. A big portion, a fresh dish, in its simplicity, well done thanks to fresh ingredients and good quality. Nice pairing with mango and aromatic fennel.

To the paper, I chose a soft egg, cooked perfectly to 61 degrees, on potato cream, with pak choi braised and taleggio cheese fonduta (14 euros): poached eggs have become a fad that I appreciate, but in this dish – altogether well-executed – I heard two failings, a savoury note (the potato puree was almost neutral and taleggio cheese fonduta failed to offset) and something crunchy (a bit obvious slice of toast).

As a starter in the tasting menu was the turn of egg pasta ravioli, made by hand, with a creamy filling made from mascarpone, ricotta and cream of rice of Oristano, used as a thickening agent is to enrich the taste of tortello. As a condiment was used a generous emulsion of butter and sapa, the cooked must is typical of Sardinia. I found it a great dish, I would suggest adding a little citrus zest (lime, Orange) to give acidity to the dish and counter with a bit of freshness the fat part of the filling and sauce.

We come to the best dish of the evening, at least in my opinion: I ordered it and it was a la carte risotto made with fregola broccoli, turnip greens, chicory, extract of shrimp, shrimp tartare and burrata (16 euros). A flawless dish: in the background the scent of toasted fregola, made by a pasta factory of Assemini, cooked al dente, then a delicate balance between bitter and sweet notes, played on vegetarli and bitter hints of chicory and turnip greens to those sweet and soft of broccoli, the burrata and tartare. Finally, the note tasty shrimp extract. One dish that stands for elegance and creativity in a menu however everything pleasant and tasty.

As for main courses, for the tasting comes a hearty pork fillet in a crust of Parmesan with baked vegetable garden: good pig cooked at low temperature, rosy at heart, with a nice variety of crunchy vegetables, Since Tuscan Kale with artichokes through carrots, onions and radicchio. I would have preferred, instead of the Parmesan crust, an accompanying sauce, even with Parmesan, to make it more moist the bite, but it is still a good dish is done correctly.

The card I ordered for second a dish that appears among the starters but I ' promote ' a main course, with some minor integration that would make it richer: Double cooked boneless quail, with its sauce and cabbage crunchy. Great quail, baked in the oven and Pan, with crispy skin and flavorful, soft and rosy to the heart, very good also the Kale, by season. The dish works, is an excellent starting point for a second interesting, Perhaps served some more gravy and served with mashed (potatoes, Celeriac, Jerusalem artichokes?) .

 

After pre dessert, a lemon sorbet, they got sweets: ' cannoli ' reviewed (7 euros), with ricotta, persimmon puree and lime sorbet. The risk of serving a cannoli at a Sicilian is great: good ricotta, beautiful presentation, pleasing the persimmon sauce and sorbet, But lurking around the corner is one of the most common mistakes. To a non crunchy cannoli zest. It must be said immediately that the zest of cannoli is affected by many factors, primarily moisture and secondly the time interval between the FRY and the service.

Finally, the paper I chose caramel apples with mango sorbet, mint sauce and crispy (7 euros). A sweet little sweet and very refreshing: Apples thoroughly cooked and holed up in a thin plate of caramel, the sorbet pleasantly acidulous, fresh mint sauce and crunchy texture with the game fun. A fine meal from manual. Between drinks deserves a citation, and compliments, the choice of proposing a Charter of waters. We must understand that even the waters (as the oils) are not all the same: Laurie and Richard in this sense are aiming to raise awareness among customers and educate them to a healthy diet. As for the wine list, We proceed by following the different brands and not denominations or territories: few and well selected labels, We try to maintain a minimal representation of the main Doc, Italian DOCG and Igt. As for the bubbles from Franciacorta in Prosecco, from Trentodoc in Champagne. Well represented Sardinia, from Wine to Gallura. Italian white wines are the wines of Alto Adige and Friuli Venezia Giulia. Among the red wines, Tuscany, Sicily and Puglia. Why not insert a good Barolo and an Amarone? On our menu we chose a great Semidano of Cantina sociale di Mogoro (Puisteris, to 25 euro). The wine prices are generally fixed.

If you find yourself in Cagliari, stop by the tailors of taste. Highly recommended.

(visited in January 2017)

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