The Prosecco Hills since July 7, 2019 UNESCO World Heritage. And if there is a place that contains an image in the meaning of the hard work of the wine grower this is the hill of Cartizze, in Valdobbiadene. A view from above by these steep slopes, dotted with poles and screws, and you understand why this corner of Italy landscape deserves recognition. A soil landslides, fragile, supported though-rooted vines, that alternate with Woods. The human hand has shaped magically over time these territories in a daily challenge with nature, to which tore off a centimeter after centimeter of fertile land in a precarious balance and spectacular. Three days between Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, Home of the Docg Prosecco, are a few to get a comprehensive overview of the territory. This is a reality that in 6 thousand hectares enclosing 160 wineries, producing more than 65 million bottles.
But the eight companies, large and small, I have visited, talking with manufacturers, touch vineyards and wineries, give an idea of the importance of these areas for the Italian viticulture, that thanks to bubbles of Prosecco Docg wine won important spaces in foreign markets. Each of these companies has its own peculiar way of making wine. Each is more or less difficult choices, more or less convinced.
And if the land is made of vines and wineries, one cannot fail to mention the historic and artistic works, local churches (including the parish church of San Pietro di Feletto), the medieval Conegliano, the Cistercian Abbey of Santa Maria di Follina, the Molinetto Croda, Cison di Valmarino which is one of Italy's most beautiful villages. Not to mention the fact that walking is the beautiful Treviso: You can't take a stroll through the arcades of the Center and, If you want to eat something special breeding tradition and innovation, try the restaurant Gustolia.
By Valdo Spumanti, between the marks historic Venetian ambassadors bubbles, I liked the great attention not only on wine but also the people behind the wine. Who gives their grapes to Waldo, more than 80 corporate contributors, technical support is offered and continuing education, with meetings and visits to other wineries in the country and not only, because knowledge and information are the basis of the product. The winery for nearly a century operates, for a production of 14,6 million bottles. A company always looking the right product, It also has various vintages of Prosecco metodo classico. The prestige line, offers wide range of types: from brut to extra dry, to dry. I personally enjoyed the Cuvée Boj and the Cuvée of the founder, Vintage 2013 for 90% from the vine, Glera, and for the 10% Chardonnay, locally grown and aged partly in French oak barrels.
The company Le Colture I liked the way Veronica Ruggeri, Image Manager, welcome guests: not so much in the cellar, because on top of the Hill of Cartizze (106 hectares where land prices were almost a million euros), to see and touch the beauty and difficulty of this territory. Remembering how the crops, born in 1983, start from the intuition of his grandfather, perfected by his father, who worked to restructure a simple barn to house the animals. Today this family business, well organized inside, has 40 hectares and produces 700 thousand bottles, that 40 percent are in foreign markets. There are six labels do not betray the style Valdobbiadene (By the way: the name derives from Val du Plavis, that is the Valley between the two Piave), fragrant and elegant Cartizze Docg, produced with grapes picked right between the steep hills of S. Stephen and Saccol.
Borgoluce It was a real treat. The company directed by Lodovico Giustiniani the discover slowly. Prosecco is important today, but it will be even more tomorrow because it will become one of the main activities of the farm. To date, next to the wine (300 thousand bottles produced) We are a herd of 150 buffaloes from which is produced a delicate buffalo milk mozzarella, a cottage, a restaurant with a menu built on the company's production, and even cereal crops (retrieving the Biancoperla and Marano), a dairy, pigs whose meat feed outlet (In addition to the new one in the Centre of Treviso), Manzi, lambs, beekeeping, a Petting Zoo that houses 3 thousand children a year, a Museum of rural traditions, all powered by a biogas plant that provides energy autonomy.
Experimentation and the continuous search for quality, along with the recovery of autochthonous, are the watchwords in home Collalto , owned by Princess Isabella Croÿ Collalto. The mark of Susegana, linked to the noble House that has a history dating back to the year 958, today embarked on a road of renewal, maintaining solid roots in the territory. Here, the southern borders of the Docg, not only produces good Prosecco Docg (650 thousand bottles on a production of one million) but also white and red wines level, as some crossings of vine Manzoni (Since the same professor Luigi Manzoni, Dean of the oenological School of Conegliano, in these rows 20-30 years led many of its agronomic experiments), wines from native grapes like Verdiso, Prosecco quiet, the Wildbacher, international wines and even a reserve red Bordeaux blend. A choice, to diversify production, Also made for that sense of responsibility that comes with being a historical lineage of the place that wants to help keep alive the memory and tradition, beyond the fashions or market requirements. The pride of the company is the castle of Susegana, it annually hosts “Vino in Villa”, the event dedicated to Prosecco Docg, While in the cellars there are still historical barrels’ bearing traces of the bullets of the Austrian army soldiers.
Manuel Codello, young winemaker and co-owner of the company Roccat, He knows all his customers, almost all Italian. Is’ always been the case in this company that in seven acres, and also screw 80 years, produces 100 000 bottles, exclusively of Prosecco Docg. Worth coming here to Valdobbiadene to try the legendary and rare Prosecco on Lees (sur lie, refermented in the bottle) done to perfection under the gaze of father Clement. The rooms in a cottage, restored in perfect rustic style veneto, complete the picture. Among the wines, the Vintage Dry Shores of San Pietro di Barbozza. I liked the passion of Manuel and the whole family, the way they make and sell wine in an extremely staff, consider friends all its customers (don't need a sales agent, long customer relationships are genuine and solids), to prove that really ' small is beautiful '.
If there is a Taliban Valdobbiadene Docg this is Desiderio Bortolin. The company Angelo Bortolin, It takes its name from father Angelo, in Guia di Valdobbiadene, is modern, with a structure launched in 2013, and chose sustainability as production philosophy. The choice is to only make Prosecco Docg, that is “the best expression of our territory”. “You have to bring visitors on places of production, otherwise all Proseccos are equal”, says Desiderio – He loves his job and his vineyard in an obvious way, visceral – displaying work centers on whose roof will be born a vineyard educational visits. For 350 thousand bottles produced on 40 acres, custom caps with photos of Dad and grandfather Wish. Not to forget the roots that have shaped the history of the mark and send a message to future generations. Brand new labels, that reproduce the tones of the land on which the sparkling wines and even the bottle is custom and plays a stylized vine twisted. More such territorial…
In Santo Stefano di Valdobbiadene, Andrea Banda who runs the cantina Bortolin Brothers with his father valerian and his brothers (20 hectares of land and 300 thousand bottles), It mentions the year 1542 to trace the history of the winery, When a certain Zan Bortolin grew 17 plots of land. From this producer, We liked the cleanliness of the wines, well anchored in perfumes (citrus and floral) and tastes of the tradition, and the attention to new production methods. One of these is used to produce a brut without added sulfites, using exclusively natural ones, with the phase of fermentation that begins on the day of harvest directly from the must. To try.
There is a vaulted cellar Rolle di Cison di Valmarino for Duca Di Dolle. But there will be soon, probably in 2016, because this company (22 hectares of which 10 hectares) the family of Treviso B is building floor plan, He wants to make it big. A beautiful Inn-relais built on an ancient 16th century camaldolese monastery, with pool surrounded by vineyards, luxurious but discreet (the tv is only in the common room, I approve of the choice!), are the best visiting card. Even Duca di Dolle has a small production of salami and makes a very good suppressed trevigiana, not for sale but available to guests: a quiet resting in my fridge. Now the bottles are 30 thousand, but will be 100 thousand and go beyond organic methods already adopted by the company, because Duca di Dolle has prepared a stricter internal protocol. Among the wines known for Prosecco Docg BRT. the rest, among these places not far from the Benedictine Abbey of Follina (9th century), does the stunning landscape of the hills.
Itinerary April 2015